May. My favourite month of the year as wildlife emerges in abundance following spring’s lease of new life. Winter has passed even though cold snaps are still in air and snow still falls in some of the high places, the longer evenings of light make for long days on the hills.
It’s been a busy year so far but with a weekend free there was only one option as to how I would spend it. I had to get back to the wilds.
I get a little stir-crazy if I don’t have regular access to the outdoors and often find that when life is starting to feel a little frenzied, a weekend spent on the hills alone helps me refresh and recharge.
I had decided to return to my ‘go-to’ mountain range where I have spent many nights sleeping on the mountains in the area. This time I decided to mix it up a bit and head to the southern part of the Rhinogydd for a change of scenery. The forecast was looking good, with sunshine and clear night skies so I packed my Bergen with all my required kit and off I went.
It’s been a busy year so far but with a weekend free there was only one option as to how I would spend it. I had to get back to the wilds.
I get a little stir-crazy if I don’t have regular access to the outdoors and often find that when life is starting to feel a little frenzied, a weekend spent on the hills alone helps me refresh and recharge.
I had decided to return to my ‘go-to’ mountain range where I have spent many nights sleeping on the mountains in the area. This time I decided to mix it up a bit and head to the southern part of the Rhinogydd for a change of scenery. The forecast was looking good, with sunshine and clear night skies so I packed my Bergen with all my required kit and off I went.
The route is a lovely one. Starting from the small carpark behind Cors y Gedol Hall I meandered along the farmer’s track, passing fields full of cows and the view of Moelfre ahead. It was another lovely warm day with a promise of clear skies.
The plan was to walk up to Diffwys and follow the ridge over Crib y-rhiw to Y Llethr where I would find a nice spot to pitch my tent for the night. With plenty of hours of daylight and not a lot of ground to cover I could take my time, walking at a leisurely pace and stopping along the way to take in my surroundings.
As I walked with Moelfre on my left I was soon met with a grand view of the mountains ahead of me. Here I continued on a path cross country that led to a lovely stone bridge at Pont Scethin where I took off my boots and refreshed by feet in the cool stream whilst enjoying a coffee. Following a brief chat with a couple who passed by I put on my Bergen and set off for the climb up to the ridge.
The plan was to walk up to Diffwys and follow the ridge over Crib y-rhiw to Y Llethr where I would find a nice spot to pitch my tent for the night. With plenty of hours of daylight and not a lot of ground to cover I could take my time, walking at a leisurely pace and stopping along the way to take in my surroundings.
As I walked with Moelfre on my left I was soon met with a grand view of the mountains ahead of me. Here I continued on a path cross country that led to a lovely stone bridge at Pont Scethin where I took off my boots and refreshed by feet in the cool stream whilst enjoying a coffee. Following a brief chat with a couple who passed by I put on my Bergen and set off for the climb up to the ridge.
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Something caught my eye alongside the path ahead of me. It seemed to be a large block of stone, which soon became clear as I reached it. The stone featured engravings and was a memorial to a lady called Janet Haig, the mother of the Bishop of Winchester (1942 -1952) who would walk this route from Tal y Bont to Penmaenpool, even as late as her 84th Birthday. How incredibly inspiring and how lovely to have this placed for her. I hope I am still able to walk in the mountains in my 80s I thought to myself as I took in the surrounding views.
Arriving on top of the ridge where I was met by a cairn I turned to the left and followed the path over undulating ground until I reached the trig point at the summit of Diffwys. Here the views were incredible and I could see for miles, taking in the sea and mountains of Snowdonia and beyond.
Arriving on top of the ridge where I was met by a cairn I turned to the left and followed the path over undulating ground until I reached the trig point at the summit of Diffwys. Here the views were incredible and I could see for miles, taking in the sea and mountains of Snowdonia and beyond.
After a brief chat with a couple of chaps enjoying a brew at the summit I continued on under bright blue skies and followed the path as it descended towards Crib y-rhiw. Here I stopped again to take of my Bergen and enjoy the surroundings with my boots off. I stayed there for about 40mins, lazing around in the sun, taking photos and watching the wildlife whilst enjoying the impressive surroundings.
Pulling myself out of a summer haze I continued on to a small llyn perched on the other side of the wall at the start of the ascent to Y Llethr. This little llyn looked out to the east and looked very inviting. Crossing the wall I was soon enjoying a wild swim in my very own infinity pool. After a sweaty few hours of walking it was divine to feel the cold water on my skin.
Pulling myself out of a summer haze I continued on to a small llyn perched on the other side of the wall at the start of the ascent to Y Llethr. This little llyn looked out to the east and looked very inviting. Crossing the wall I was soon enjoying a wild swim in my very own infinity pool. After a sweaty few hours of walking it was divine to feel the cold water on my skin.
Feeling refreshed it was time to make the short slog up the summit of Y Llethr. At the top I bumped into only the 5th person I had seen on the hills that day. He was traversing the route from the north and had come up from Rhinog Fach, whose summit and Llyn I could see clearly from where I stood.
After a chat I bid home farewell as he continued his route down. It was early evening now so I cached my Bergen and set off to explore the area, taking in the views as I went. I returned about an hour or so later, pitched my tent on the summit and sat having dinner awaiting the sun to set. Looking down to Llyn Hywel I could see a tent pitched and someone stood by the water’s edge. I wondered if they had noticed me all the way up here on top of the mountain.
After a chat I bid home farewell as he continued his route down. It was early evening now so I cached my Bergen and set off to explore the area, taking in the views as I went. I returned about an hour or so later, pitched my tent on the summit and sat having dinner awaiting the sun to set. Looking down to Llyn Hywel I could see a tent pitched and someone stood by the water’s edge. I wondered if they had noticed me all the way up here on top of the mountain.
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The sun began to set and I had the most beautiful colours could be seen caressing the horizon, giving the evening light a beautiful Alpenglow pink hue. The sunset was phenomenal and left the skies banded at the horizon that reminded me of the photos the astronauts take frim the International Space Station.
This was only the beginning of what was in store for the night as the sunset gave way to a clear sky featuring millions of starts. The temperature had dropped leaving a cool chill in the air. Donning my down jacket I laid back on the ground under one of the most prominent Milky Ways I have seen in the UK and watched as shooting starts whizzed through the sky.
This was only the beginning of what was in store for the night as the sunset gave way to a clear sky featuring millions of starts. The temperature had dropped leaving a cool chill in the air. Donning my down jacket I laid back on the ground under one of the most prominent Milky Ways I have seen in the UK and watched as shooting starts whizzed through the sky.
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Needless to say I didn’t sleep much that night as I looked on in awe at this incredible sky above me, thinking and philosophising about the beauty of this planet and what is beyond it. At about 3am I crawled into my tent and fell into a deep sleep, only to be woken by the alarm that I had set to awake me before sunrise. As the alarm went off I unzipped my tent to be met with another wonderful view. Looking to the east I saw a hint of the sun beginning to rise, causing a watercolour effect of blues and pinks.
Packing up my tent, I followed the path away from the summit and down the western side of Y Llethr, savouring what I had seen since setting off the day before. I continued on the path that ascended to the summit of Moelfre, to be met by a cairn made from a huge pile of jagged rocks.
Here I descended through the forest, stopping to explore the old ruins of a farmhouse before meeting up with the path that heads left to the Llyn Bodlyn Reservoir and right to the track that led me back to the small carpark. As I packed my kit into the car I looked back at the mountains I had stood upon with a huge smile on my face.
Here I descended through the forest, stopping to explore the old ruins of a farmhouse before meeting up with the path that heads left to the Llyn Bodlyn Reservoir and right to the track that led me back to the small carpark. As I packed my kit into the car I looked back at the mountains I had stood upon with a huge smile on my face.
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Turning the Jetboil on to make an early morning cup of coffee I sat outside my tent, watching in awe once again as the sun rose through the clouds, lighting up the horizon and casting its golden cloak on all of the surroundings. With coffee in hand I walked around the area in the early morning chill watching as the natural world seem to wake from its slumber.
There is something incredibly humbling about standing on a mountain alone watching sunrises, sunsets and incredible night skies. After all, we are mere mortals and only a small grain in the vast sands of time. I always feel honoured and hugely connected to the natural world during these experiences.
There is something incredibly humbling about standing on a mountain alone watching sunrises, sunsets and incredible night skies. After all, we are mere mortals and only a small grain in the vast sands of time. I always feel honoured and hugely connected to the natural world during these experiences.
These types of adventures are where I feel most fulfilled. The route itself is great and with wonderful weather and an incredible wild camp spot, I left feeling recharged and privileged to have once again been shown the wonders of nature.
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