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The Hill of the Hawk - An Autumnal Adventure on Moel Hebog

11/11/2012

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Moel Hebog as seen from Beddgelert
It had been a while since I hit the high peaks so I decided to head to Snowdonia to explore a peak that I have often passed on my way through the village of Beddgelert.  At 782m (2,566 ft), Moel Hebog  falls short of the Snowdonian ’ 3000+ footers’ but this does not mean that it isn't an equally impressive peak. Dominating the skyline to the west, its prominent peak looks different depending on from what side it is viewed, featuring a more rounded summit from the south and a jagged, pointy looking summit if viewed from the east. 


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Autumnal colours down by the river
As I approached  Beddgelert on the A498 passing the Snowdon massif to my right and alongside Llyn Gwynant, Moel Hebog came clearly into view  standing at the end of the valley along. Also on view were the neighbouring peaks that make up the Nantll Ridge, a 9km ridge that connects a series of mountains in the area. Having had more time I would have incorporated these summits in the route, but with the shorter autumn days I didn’t want to be out on the hills in the dark.

After parking up on the carpark in the village I headed up the road to join the access track to the left, crossing over the river. The autumnal colours were on fierce display with the trees boasting a rich variety of burnt oranges, deep reds and golden yellows, creating the most beautiful scene as they clustered along  the banks as the river rushed by.


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From here I followed the track, crossing the Welsh Highland Railway line, whose steam trains can often be heard tooting away throughout the valley. After entering the rich wooded area, once again passing over the railway line as it looped back, I left the woods to be welcomed by the first clear view of Mount Hebog. The mountain’s name translates as ‘Bare Hill of the Hawk’, why this may be is unknown but I feel it could be in relation to the terrain; a mixture of marshland, high crags and wooded features making it ideal habitat and hunting ground for birds of prey. Or, perhaps it is the bird’s eye view that you experience from the top of the peak looking down to the valley below and across to the magnificent mountains of Snowdonia and beyond!


Once out of the woods I took the path over the marshland, following it as it ascended up the hill. The heavy downpour of the day before had ensured the ground underfoot was wet, causing the path to be really muddy and slippy, calling for a bit more focus on where to put each foot.


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The view to the East from Moel Hebog
At this point it  was quiet on the hill with only a couple walking further ahead, and the only sounds were the ravens calling above and the choo of the steam train as it passed along the Welsh Highland Railway just below. As with most peaks the great thing about the climb up Moel Hebog is that the further you go the more the surrounding landscape opens up, allowing for the most amazing view across to Yr Aran and Snowdon just behind, the Cnicht to the right and Moel Siabod standing in its prominence in the distant. Today, however, the higher peaks had their summits covered by a low blanket of cloud, with only the occasion glimpse as they blew by.

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Nantll Ridge to the north
The further the path goes up, the more of a climb it becomes with a bit of scrambling which makes for a nice change of pace in the walk. I love scrambling and the challenge it brings as you have to put your mind into action to ensure you get up and over the rocks safely. Though this was by no means a hard scramble, the fact that the rocks were so slippy provided for some heart stopping near slips and scuffles. After the scramble I took a look around and could now see the other peaks of the Nantll Ridge to the north including the bizarrely shaped ridge that connects  Mynydd Drws-y-coed and Mynydd  Tal-y-mignedd.


In this photo you can see the coastline in the distance in between the peaks.

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Volcanic rock formations & the scree path
I continued upwards where the path became a much steeper ascent and was made from scree, a mixture of loose stone and small boulders. Now, I ‘m not a huge fan of scree as it creates a one step up , two steps down as you slip back making for a rather tiresome attempt. This scree wasn’t too bad but every now and then I would hit a loose stone, sending it rolling down the path, with the fear that it would pick up momentum, collect other stones along the way and cause an ‘avalanche of stones’ swiftly wiping out the village of Beddgelert below. An over exaggeration I know, but you have to be careful on scree.

The other thing about this type of terrain is that a mouse wearing slippers could be walking up, but it would still sound like an approaching herd of elephants!

At this point of the climb it is a mixture of scree walking and scramble over some pretty wet rocks and some weird rock formation which I later found out were volcanic rock and pillow lava, and that this area is a popular stop for geology students.


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Approaching one of the false summits.
Now for those of you who aren’t a fan of false summits, this mountain will have you sweating and perhaps swearing, as this hill has two! Once I was up and over the rocky ascent I came to a flat area which led up to another prominent rocky peak.  Another climb up and over and again I was on a flat area, but still no sign of the trig point. I followed the line of cairns keeping  them and the Snowdon massif to my left, before I finally reached the Trig point which was a rather chunky structure as far as trig points go.

Here the views were immense, allowing for so much of the surrounding area of North Wales to be seen. With the coast to the west, the ocean beyond and the mountainous area blanketed in gorgeous autumnal colours on the hillsides and the forests below.


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Summit Trig point with Cnicht peak in distance
I had the summit to myself as there was no one else to be seen, and within 5mins of being at the top a huge cloud rolled in from the north enveloping me. There I was on top of a mountain surrounded in cloud, both an eerie and mystical experience as I’m sure you will agree, but before long the cloud rolled away opening up the view again.



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The WMR Steam train
Looking to the north it was clear that the weather was going to turn slightly so i set of down the way i came taking care not to slip on the stones and grass on the ascent. Careful as I was,  I still fell on my derriere a few times which on the lower slope producing a rather wet bottom as I slipped on the grass! I stopped just below where the ridge opens up into a lesser steep descent and took in the view of the surrounding peaks ridge. It was here that I heard the familiar ‘choo choo’ of the steam train from further up the railway track, creating the most incredible sound as it echoed throughout the valley. So much so that it sounded like it was two trains calling to each other from opposite sides of Snowdonia. Another magical experience in Snowdonia.

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As I cut through the woodland and crossed over the railway again, the sun had begun to set in the west creating a halo of golden light around the peak of Moel Hebog. As I walked down the road into Beddgelert there was a slight chill in the air and the smell of chimney smoke from the log fires warming the pubs and houses creating the perfect autumn’s evening.  As the day became night I looked up toward the darkened  peak of Moel Hebog as it stood there, casting a  protective presence over the village below.




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NB: 
The Memorial at Beddgelert. As this day was Armistice Day my thoughts were with those who, as someone beautifully put it , 'gave up their tomorrows so we could have a today', and those today who are ensuring we have a safe future. I spent a lot of time on the hills thinking bout their sacrifice. We Will Remember Them.
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    Someone who seeks adventure, yet inevitably adventure finds her.  Always seeking inspiration, always looking for a challenge.

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