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The Hidden Utopia on the Mountain of Hope

3/2/2013

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Looking back toward Hope Mountain trig point in the centre


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Browsing the map of area which teeters on the North Wales border, I came across a small mountain that features its own trig point & country park. At the height of 330m it is more of a small hill than a towering mountain, but it does dominate the view of the surrounding area as you approach from over the Anglo- Welsh border from Cheshire. More than anything it was the name of the mountain that really drew me to it, one of mystique and allure, a name that can only be associated with a intricate history of magic and intrigue, the name:  Hope Mountain. However, much to my disappointment, after a brief internet search it didn't actually offer much as to the story behind the name. 


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Views out to the Dee Estuary to the North East
Set in the welsh countryside with the village of Caergwrle at its base, Hope Mountain, or Yr Hob as is the welsh translation, juts out of the ground and offers a fantastic panoramic view across North Wales, the Cheshire Plane and over to the Dee estuary and coast line.  On the saddle of the mountain sits the Waun y Llyn country park which is a popular place for a wide range of people looking for a leisurely walk in beautiful surrounding areas.

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The Trig point in Waun Y Llyn Country Park with views across Cheshire
Driving through the village of Caergwrle, I followed the very narrow, steep, winding road that takes you up to the country park and thanked God that the recent snow and ice had thawed away as I would not have fancied that drive up in those conditions. Not when my chariot is an Astra and not  4x4 Cross Terrain monster. Parking up in the conveniently placed carpark it wasn’t long before the dogs were out the boot and we headed through the gate to enter the park. Here the path quickly leads to a trig point which features picture of the landmarks that you can see all around. From the sandstone ridges of Cheshire, to the islands of Hilbre and Middle-eye off the Dee Estuary, and not to mention the hills of the Clwydian Range, there is so much to see.

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Views across North Wales with the Clwydian Hills Moel Famau & Foel Fenlli and the Llantysilio peaks poking out on the left
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Approaching the hidden utopia
Apart from the views I wasn’t really expecting too much from the country park, but by Jove, it was something else, and turned out to be a remarkable journey of exploration. Apart from the main track there were so many paths veering off that lead like a maze through the heather and gorse bushes, bringing you upon some fascinating places as you stumble across crags and boulders that crop out of the ground. Whereas I thought I would be passing, trailing or overtaking people and dogs constantly this was not the case as I was often lead to places where no one was about. 

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The hidden tran
One such place was an enchanted looking tarn with a crag backdrop that looked like it belonged deep in the Venezuela rain forest rather than on a Welsh mountain. Here I stood for quite a while in a sort of state of shock and awe as to how such a place existed up here. I can’t really put my finger on it and the photos really don’t do it justice but there was something really magical about the place, a hidden Utopia. The dogs would agree to as they seemed almost as flabbergasted by the discovery, well, until they discovered they could jump in the tarn ad break up the thin layer of ice that had formed as a reminder that this was not a place of exotic climate!

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Spot the boulderers!
As I explored the crags and rock formations, it became obvious that these would be great rock to boulder on with some interesting problems featured. It was as I pondered this that I popped my head over the rocks to a longer stretch of crags, where, would you believe it; a couple of lads were bouldering. A bit of intrigue and a pop of Google search on the phone and yup, this place features as a bouldering destination on the UK Climbing website. Now there is one for the future bouldering day trip!



The more I walked the more paths in the gorse and heather seemed to produce and I began to realise this wasn’t just park that can be walked around in an hr or so, you could spend all day exploring. Before long I stumbled across the lake which I had been wondering about as it is featured in the park’s name – ‘Llyn’ being Welsh for ‘Lake’, surprisingly bigger than I had expected


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views across the Cheshire plain with its sandstone ridges...and llamas!
After another hour or so of me and the dogs running around the area like something out of Swallows & Amazons, complete with buzzard feathers in our hair (or attached to the collars in the dogs case) we decided to walk back to the car park and head off the mountain, not before driving passed the field where the actual Hope mountain Trig point stands. As I drove up the slim track I couldn’t help but notice a weird looking horse in the field to the left of the road. A double take later I realised that they were not alien horses but in fact Lamas! Am I still in Wales?

After just as a dicey descent on the narrow, winding road I eventually ended back in Caergwrle where I parked up. Earlier, whilst looking at the map I had noticed that this small, welsh village has something a little different to most, this village has its own castle! For years I have driven through this village, totally unaware as to what was hidden behind a spread of trees just off the main road.  Now I knew it was there I had to explore and have a look at this castle, now in ruins.

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Caergwrle Castle, also known as Queen's Hope in scholarly texts, it was the final castle to be built by Welsh rulers before the loss of Welsh independence in 1283.[1]  'The caste began to be built in 1277 after King Edward I gave the lordship of Hope to Dafydd ap Gruffudd as reward for his service in the Welsh war concluded earlier that year. Notable features included two D-shaped towers and a great circular keep overlooking the approach to the south-east. It has been speculated that Dafydd employed English masons to work on the castle, which was apparently unfinished when Dafydd revolted in 1282. By the time Edward had gathered an army to invade Wales in June, Dafydd had already retreated from Caergwrle, and had slighted the castle, even blocking up its well to deny it to the English. Edward promptly began rebuilding the castle, and gave it to his wife, Eleanor of Castile. However, a fire in 1283 gutted the castle, and it was never rebuilt.[1]'

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Caergwrle Castle ruins
I got up to the ruins as the sun began to set and was surprised to see that no one else was up there, though there was an eerie feel in the air. No surprising that there is much speculation of ghostly sightings around the ruins and I have read since that a Paranormal Club has been up there to carry out an investigation. What was found I am not sure but it felt slightly unsettling stood there looking over to the summit of Hope Mountain. The ruins themselves are impressive, as many features can still be made out, such as the oven area and what would have possibly been a moat around the castle. With the views across Cheshire and over to the coast it would have been a good defensive location, though you can see why they left this in preference of one nearer to the coast where trade & supplies could easily be shipped in.


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As I headed away from the castle ruins I noticed another trees lined hill almost a stone’s throw away. Looking at the map I was intrigued to see that this too housed the site of a hill fort Caer Estyn, and was keen to get across and take a look. However, the sun was dropping quickly now and I would have been hard pushed to make it up before I lost light, so I decided to leave that adventure for another day. Once down from the castle ruins, myself and the dogs jumped in the car and made our way home after a really good day on the hills.

Even though it didn’t feel like we had been up a mountain due to no real ascent, Hope Mountain was a fantastic experience of views, wildlife, and fascinating hidden utopias. It was a long afternoon of fascinating exploration to other worlds and an area I can’t wait to get back to, especially for the bouldering! And who would have thought – a castle in Caergwrle!


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    Someone who seeks adventure, yet inevitably adventure finds her.  Always seeking inspiration, always looking for a challenge.

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