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Sleeping on Mountains: Arenig Fawr

31/7/2016

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This was a bit of an impromptu trip as my original plans for the weekend had fallen through. So here I here I was, sat at my work desk at 3.45pm with my kit packed in the car and no set plan. No bother though as I knew exactly where I would go; a mountain range I have been to many times and absolutely love. The Arenigs.

Located in southern Snowdonia, these are the prominent hills that can be seen as you drive on the A4212 passed Llyn Celyn. Arenig Fawr standing at 854m is on the left, its ridgeline very clear (when not draped in clag) and its sister peak, Arenig Fach (689m) the more rounded looking mountain to the right of the road.

By the time I had got there and parked up, checking my kit one last time to ensure I had everything for the days ahead, it was around 7pm. With the longer summer days this gave me plenty of time to reach the bothy at Llyn Arenig Fawr where I had planned to stay the night in front of a fire. I have stayed at the bothy many times before and although it is small and cosy I always find it vacant.

As I headed up the road, eventually turning right onto the path, the evening light lit up the surrounding hills with a golden hue. It was still warm and by the time I arrived at the bothy (which was vacant) I thought it would be a shame to choose bricks and mortar over canvas on a night like this so decided I would ascend Arenig Fawr and sleep near the summit. I always pack my tent and things even when I am planning to stay at a bothy. You never know, there may be no room at the inn.

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Heading up via Y Castell, the surroundings were awash in gold that slowly turned to a pinky hue once the sun set further. The view was impeccable and I could see all the mountains of Snowdonia both near and far. I hadn’t seen anyone on the hill and that feeling of complete solitude felt so good. Moving forward I headed up on to Arenig Fawr’s flank, finding a perfect pitch just before a rocky outcrop. I don’t like to camp too near the summit on Arenig Fawr out of respect to the B17 Flying Fortress American Air Crew who sadly lost there lives when their air craft cashed into the mountain on the 4th August 1943. There is a memorial plaque and photo of the crew near the trig point, along with Remembrance Poppies which always leaves me a bit emotional.
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With tent up and dinner on I sat back and watched the skies changed colour as the sun began to set. This produced the most beautiful Belt of Venus that caressed the horizon, giving the evening light a beautiful alpenglow. Though a little chilly there was no wind, thus creating a wonderful, peaceful atmosphere as I sat there.  As far as I was aware I was the only human on that mountain and it was such an amazing feeling. People often remark how ‘brave’ I am to go climb and sleep on mountains as a lone female. Personally I feel safer in these environments than I do going on a night out in a city these days. I am experienced, competent and confident in my ability and always check weather and prepare for a multitude of situations. I carry map and compass and know how to use them, plan my routes (leaving a route card with family) do not take silly risk and know what to do should the shizzle hit the fan.

Sitting there on that mountain, watching the most stunning sunset that left a night sky awash with a million stars I felt like I was home. There is something about the mountains and natural surroundings that speak to me. Almost like a primal connection or a natural reconnect, this is where I feel the happiest, the most fulfilled and the most like myself. There’s no pressures of the ‘Real World’ here. The ones that throw a million things that you should do/should be/shouldn’t do/shouldn’t be et al. at such an incredible pace.

Taking a step back from all that and just spending even the smallest time in natural surroundings can be so good for us as a species. We just need to remember that.
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,The sky was truly alive that night. The sunset was phenomenal and left the skies banded at the horizon, reminding me of the photos the astronauts take from the International Space Station.

Noticing a bright satellite I soon realised it as the International Space Station. I watched it cross above me eventually fading and disappearing into the Earth’s shadow thinking how incredible it was that there are people on board all the way up there in orbit.

Needless to say I did not sleep much that night as I stayed up, awestruck by the skies above me. Meteors continued to burn through the atmosphere ranging from short fain whisps to bright, fire balls. The Milky Way arched over the skies above me and I thought about all the stories, myths and legends about the night sky that I had heard about over the years.

Whenever I look up at the night sky I always ponder about people across history who have looked up at that same sky and those same stars and wondered what their lives were like and what they were thinking at that time.
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After a couple hours more sleep I awoke early to catch the sunrise following the previous day’s sunrise. To me, this is a beautiful experience and one I wish I could witness each day (life and the weather usually to blame). Though the sunrise featured briefly it was soon submerged by the early morning cloud that set in, the landscape equally stunning nonetheless.

After a couple more hours kip followed by exploring the area and watching the wildlife I packed up and headed toward the summit of Arenig Fawr. It was another beautifully warm day with a scattering of cloud and I enjoyed taking my time as there was no rush. Reaching the summit and stopping at the memorial to show my respect I followed the path down towards the southern flank before dropping down to reach the head of the valley. Here I sat for a while with the Jetboil on and watched people parascending off Arenig Fawr’s western flanks. Taking the path to the west I headed up to the summit of Moel Llyfnant, saying hello to the first person I had seen in the hills. The wind had picked up by the time I got to the summit so I didn’t spend too long there before dropping back down to the path which met up with the route down the valley.
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Passing waterfalls I stopped to top up my water and continued on the path which eventually led me to the ruins of an old farm house. Here I sat watching a very vocal buzzard soar above before perching in a small tree close by. Amongst the ruins, looking out to the beautiful landscape seemed like the perfect spot for lunch. I lazed around in the sun for some time, enjoying the peace and quiet. I could see a fair few people at the summit of Arenig Fawr at this point as it approached early afternoon. Packing up my Jetboil and kit, I threw my Bergen back on and headed on the path that took me towards the disused quarry near to where the car was parked. I would have liked to spend another night in the hills but had to be back for an event on Saturday night.
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Though my time was limited on the hills compared to usual it was still one of the most fulfilling and fruitful of experiences. To watch the night sky from the mountains is nothing short of humbling as to how minuscule you realise you are in the grand scheme of things and why it is so important to make the most of our time here, appreciating this incredible planet we live on.
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    Someone who seeks adventure, yet inevitably adventure finds her.  Always seeking inspiration, always looking for a challenge.

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