Famed for its wildlife, scenery, mystical standing stones and rich Gaelic culture, and folklore such as stories of water horses, sea creatures and ‘seers’ that could predict the future , the Isle of Lewis is the largest of the Outer Hebridean islands. Though it is not actually an island, as it is connected by land to the isle of Harris, it is a place steeped in history and culture that goes back thousands of years.
Uig sands statue
I had been travelling across the Outer Hebrides alone until today as I had arranged to meet a friend who was to fly into Stornoway Airport, after which we would continue to explore Lewis.
Making way from Harris to Lewis brought with it new landscapes and new experiences as I passed lochs and stopped along the way to watch buzzards soaring and deer in the forests.
Making way from Harris to Lewis brought with it new landscapes and new experiences as I passed lochs and stopped along the way to watch buzzards soaring and deer in the forests.
Callanish Standing Stones
As I approached the airport the weather changed and the beautiful blue skies and sunshine that I was accustomed to turned into grey clouds and rain. After a stop for coffee and provisions we made our way up towards Tolsta where we walked along the cliffs and past Garry Beach. Following on from this we headed down the A858 crossing to the west of Lewis where we visited the Callanish standing stones. This stone circle, which consists of 13 stones surrounding a central stone that is just under 5 meters high, was erected in the Neolithic period and Callanish is one of the more remote stone circles in the British Isles
‘The stones are known as 'Fir Bhreig' meaning the false men in Gaelic, it is possible they were looked upon as petrified people in the distant past. Legend suggests that the stones were giants, turned to stone by St Kieran when they would not convert to Christianity.
The stones were also said to have a spectral visitation on the dawn of the Midsummer Solstice. A shinning figure is said to walk down Northern avenue heralded by the call of a Cuckoo. This may be a folk memory of astronomical alignments or seasonal ritual at the site.’
((http://www.mysteriousbritain.co.uk/scotland/western-isles/featured-sites/callanais-callanish-stone-circle.html)
The stones were also said to have a spectral visitation on the dawn of the Midsummer Solstice. A shinning figure is said to walk down Northern avenue heralded by the call of a Cuckoo. This may be a folk memory of astronomical alignments or seasonal ritual at the site.’
((http://www.mysteriousbritain.co.uk/scotland/western-isles/featured-sites/callanais-callanish-stone-circle.html)
Langoustine!
By now the weather had cleared, so after a quick stop in the ‘Inn Between’ cafe for a drink, we headed to Uig sands where we were to camp that night. On the way we came across Gallon Head, a hotel nestled on the cliffs on the most westerly point of Lewis, where they had an extremely enticing menu so we decided to stop for dinner to sample the seafood on offer. With a feast of mussels and langoustine we called it a night and headed to set up camp for the night, to discover not only a few other campers at the site, but a whole load of highland castle.
The Iron Age House, Great Bernera
The next day the weather was a tad unsettled with the wind and rain coming in as we packed up the tents. We made our way toward Great Bernera, where we visited a reconstruction of an Iron Age house near the beach, and walked over to the north coast to a seabird colony. Here there was a great view across to Little Bernera, a small neighbouring island as sea kayakers cruised the coast line and razorbills, snipes and gannets flew about noisily. The rest of the day was spent exploring the area, watching the wildlife and generally experiencing a wide variety of things that Lewis has to offer. Before we knew it, it was late evening and so we looked at where to pitch that night, deciding on Eilean Fraoich Campsite near Shawbost. The camp site was small and friendly, with the majority of people staying there in campervans and offered good facilities, including a lovely little kitchen and sitting room where we brewed up and stayed for a while.
Light house of Butt of Lewis
Awaking to better weather we headed up to the northern tip of the island to the Butt of Lewis where the lighthouse stands high on the cliffs. Built in 1862 by the Stevenson brothers (one of whom son’s was the famous author Robert Louis Stevenson), and standing at 37m high, it has been protecting the ships at sea ever since.
With it being such an exposed part of the Island it was incredibly windy but the impressive rock faces, cliffs, and views out to see were amazing, and to stand there and think that the only thing between us and America was the ocean was astounding. When we could not take the wind anymore we drove back toward Port Nis, a lovely fishing village.
As we continued to drive back inland, passing lochs and in the middle of nowhere we came across a pub. Having decided to stop for a drink we got chatting to the owner and his friend, who had offered for us to camp in the Pub garden if we needed to. Once this was decided, the drinks were flowing and we actually decided to stay in the hotel in the end which was a nice experience having been camping for over a week!
With it being such an exposed part of the Island it was incredibly windy but the impressive rock faces, cliffs, and views out to see were amazing, and to stand there and think that the only thing between us and America was the ocean was astounding. When we could not take the wind anymore we drove back toward Port Nis, a lovely fishing village.
As we continued to drive back inland, passing lochs and in the middle of nowhere we came across a pub. Having decided to stop for a drink we got chatting to the owner and his friend, who had offered for us to camp in the Pub garden if we needed to. Once this was decided, the drinks were flowing and we actually decided to stay in the hotel in the end which was a nice experience having been camping for over a week!
Fishing trip
Refreshed and ready to continue on the way the next day we were actually invited on a fishing trip with the land lord and co. And went out to sea on a small fishing boat where we caught mackerel and watched the wildlife. This is another thing that makes the islands as special as they are, the locals are so friendly and helpful, and it was really great of them to allow us to be go fishing with them.
Once back on terra firma it was time to waved goodbye and head down to Harris where the Hebridean came to an end, as we hopped on the ferry and sailed to Uig on the mainland of Scotland.
Once back on terra firma it was time to waved goodbye and head down to Harris where the Hebridean came to an end, as we hopped on the ferry and sailed to Uig on the mainland of Scotland.
Lewis has its own unique experience as do all the island in the Outer Hebrides and each brought its own special adventure. From its history to the wildlife, the gorgeous beaches to the magnificent and varied landscapes and its individuality and friendliness of the locals, I still haven’t even scratched the service of the things to see and do on each island. The Outer Hebridean Islands are a place to inspire, explore and experience, and I will never forget this adventure, and can’t wait to get back out there!
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