Crossing the Sound of Harris
The next destination on the Hebridean adventure was the Isle of Harris, home to a rich history, the famous Harris Tweed and fantastic mountain scenery.
Having spent the night wild camping near on the coast on Berneray, I packed up before driving over to Lochmaddy where I was to get the ferry across the Sound of Harris to the Island, which technically isn’t an island as it is connected by land to Lewis.
On arrival to the harbour I noticed a sign stating showers, which was a real bonus as I was still covered in salt from the swim in the sea the day before. After a hot shower I popped into the harbour cafe for a breakfast of fresh salmon and scrambled egg whilst I watched otters out on the rocks.
Later on my ferry arrived to take me away to Harris where the views of its mountain range were on full display. It wasn’t long after I left the ferry that I noticed a large bird of prey soaring over a wooded area. Seeming to be much larger than a buzzard, I stopped the car and grabbed the binoculars only to see the beautiful sight of a golden eagle soaring majestically above. A great sign, and already I knew I was going to love Harris!
Later on my ferry arrived to take me away to Harris where the views of its mountain range were on full display. It wasn’t long after I left the ferry that I noticed a large bird of prey soaring over a wooded area. Seeming to be much larger than a buzzard, I stopped the car and grabbed the binoculars only to see the beautiful sight of a golden eagle soaring majestically above. A great sign, and already I knew I was going to love Harris!
Wild camping at Horgabost
I spent the afternoon and into the evening driving around taking the views in before making my way to the Horgabost wild campsite, which has all the pros of wild camping (there are no wardens and payment is made via an honesty box) but with the added facilities of showers on sight. I pitched up by the sea again and watched the sunset over Taransay which is the island off the west coast of Harris famed for the TV show Ship Wrecked. I had a peaceful night though the coastal wind brought in a bit of a chill.
The Machair
The next morning I awoke and got out the tent only to be welcomed by the most beautiful view across to the islands under blue skies. I left Horgabost and made my way to the town of Leverburgh driving past the beautiful, colourful blankets of wild flowers on the machair. I stopped off at the Seallam visitors centre & museum as I had read that they featured an exhibition about St Kilda and its history, which has fascinated me since I read about it a couple years earlier.
The museum was small but full of books, photographs and even a film about St Kilda and how they survived on the island in pretty harsh conditions. It went on to explain the run up to their evacuation in the 1930 which brought an end to island being inhabited as it had been for many years. It is a sad story really but there is something so enchanting and fascinating about the island I just wanted to read more about it and one day go there. It is now a nature reserve that houses a huge bird colony and you can take a rib boat there as part of the wild life tours.
The museum was small but full of books, photographs and even a film about St Kilda and how they survived on the island in pretty harsh conditions. It went on to explain the run up to their evacuation in the 1930 which brought an end to island being inhabited as it had been for many years. It is a sad story really but there is something so enchanting and fascinating about the island I just wanted to read more about it and one day go there. It is now a nature reserve that houses a huge bird colony and you can take a rib boat there as part of the wild life tours.
An Cliseam
Before I knew it was midday so drove to Leverburgh to get some lunch at the Anchorage Inn down by the pier where I had mussels which had been caught that morning. That’s another thing I love about the islands is the fresh seafood. From huge crab claws, to lobster to mussels and fish, they know how to catch it and how to cook it.
With my belly full and energy levels up there was only one thing to do next and that was to climb the Outer Hebrides highest peak – An Cliseam (799m). The peak itself dominates the landscape as is identifiable by its cone shape. I parked up, grabbed the map and began to ascend. The going is fairly steep with the walk in quite marshy, which then leads to a steep incline which is rather rocky and it is a fair scramble at the top. There are other routes up which are easier but take longer so I continued with the direct ‘straight up’ route. As I climbed I kept checking the skies for eagles and to take in the breath taking views around me. Before long I was at the top and the views were out of this world.
With my belly full and energy levels up there was only one thing to do next and that was to climb the Outer Hebrides highest peak – An Cliseam (799m). The peak itself dominates the landscape as is identifiable by its cone shape. I parked up, grabbed the map and began to ascend. The going is fairly steep with the walk in quite marshy, which then leads to a steep incline which is rather rocky and it is a fair scramble at the top. There are other routes up which are easier but take longer so I continued with the direct ‘straight up’ route. As I climbed I kept checking the skies for eagles and to take in the breath taking views around me. Before long I was at the top and the views were out of this world.
The view from An Cliseam summit
As I stood there and did a full 360 degree turn I was nearly bowled over by how incredible the sights were before me. It was one of the most beautiful things I had seen and words cannot describe the feeling of standing on this mountain and looking out across the whole of the Outer Hebridean Islands.
To add to this experience I then noticed a sort of silhouette way out to the west, taking to my binoculars I realised, with extreme excitement, that it was in fact St Kilda in all its mystical glory. This, I found out later, is not a common event as conditions need to be perfect in order to see it from the Outer Hebrides which made it all the more magical an experience.
To add to this experience I then noticed a sort of silhouette way out to the west, taking to my binoculars I realised, with extreme excitement, that it was in fact St Kilda in all its mystical glory. This, I found out later, is not a common event as conditions need to be perfect in order to see it from the Outer Hebrides which made it all the more magical an experience.
Having not seen a soul on my approach to the peak and its ascent I was just about to set up my camera in position and put it on self timer to take a photo of me at the summit. Next thing I know I hear voices only to then see two heads poke up over the rocks. It was a couple who had ascended off the ridge from the west of the peak, and as they too had not seen anyone else on their walk, they too were as surprised to see me as I was to see them!
As we chatted we discovered that we were actually from the North West of the UK, which goes to show what a small world it is! After we took photos for each other we said our farewells and I made my way down back to the car, spotting a sea eagle on the descent.
As we chatted we discovered that we were actually from the North West of the UK, which goes to show what a small world it is! After we took photos for each other we said our farewells and I made my way down back to the car, spotting a sea eagle on the descent.
By the time I got back to the car it was early evening so I looked at the map for an area to pitch up for the night. I spotted a road that leads to a dead-end by a beach which looked over toward the west so seemed like a great place to catch a sunset. I took the road which took me straight into what seemed a miniature castle grounds. I slowed down to look for a place to turn around, thinking I had taken a wrong turn only to discover that, no, I was on the right track, it just a had a random mini castle to the side of it!
The road ended at another gorgeous beach toward the south and here there was a large flat grassed area that over looked the cliffs. I pitched in what seemed to be in a massive warren as there were little rabbits hopping around everywhere. They didn’t seem to mind me being there so I pitched up, had dinner and sat in the chair watching the gannets dive-bombing out to sea and read a book about St Kilda that I had got from the museum earlier as the sky turned from pink to a rich gold as the sun set.
The road ended at another gorgeous beach toward the south and here there was a large flat grassed area that over looked the cliffs. I pitched in what seemed to be in a massive warren as there were little rabbits hopping around everywhere. They didn’t seem to mind me being there so I pitched up, had dinner and sat in the chair watching the gannets dive-bombing out to sea and read a book about St Kilda that I had got from the museum earlier as the sky turned from pink to a rich gold as the sun set.
Though I have only spent a short time on Harris I feel I have made the most of the time here exploring and experiencing what it has to offer. It, like each of the Outer Hebrides islands, it has its own unique aspect including the mountainous landscape that provides some epic views. With such high, craggy peaks it provides a great habitat for birds of prey, including the golden and sea eagles that I had seen earlier.
I've not only gained some great memories, explore amazing areas and experienced what nature has to offer on this island...
I've also gained a rather fabulous Harris Tweed handbag!
I've not only gained some great memories, explore amazing areas and experienced what nature has to offer on this island...
I've also gained a rather fabulous Harris Tweed handbag!
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