Arriving into Castlebay with Kisimul Castle in view
My Hebridean adventure began with a ferry journey to Barra, the most southern island of the Outer Hebrides. Leaving the Oban on the mainland we made our way through the Sound of Mull passing the island under blue skies & sunshine. Though the journey is fairly long (just over 5 hours) it soon flew by as I spent most of the journey out, on deck watching the ocean go by and a pod of 12 or so dolphins as they swam alongside the boat, putting on an incredible acrobatic display.
This is what I love about the area of the West Coast of Scotland, you never know just what you will see but it is without a doubt going to be amazing.
This is what I love about the area of the West Coast of Scotland, you never know just what you will see but it is without a doubt going to be amazing.
Wild camping on Vatersay
Arriving into Castlebay ferry port, passing by Kisimul castle (a medieval castle that stands on its own rocky islet in the bay just off the coast of Barra) the Island’s highest peak of was visible just behind the township. It was now early evening and so I made my way off the boat and drove over the causeway to Vatersay to look for the perfect pitch for the tent. It wasn’t long before I came across Triagh Siar beach which looked like the perfect place to set up home for the night. Once the tent was pitched and before the evening lost too much light, I took a walk along the beach, but what I wasn’t prepared for was the sea mist that suddenly came in, creating a thick blanket of fog preventing me from seeing much. It was a really weird sensation of walking through another world.
This created an extremely eerie atmosphere and as I walked along the sand alone I had the fright of my life when a shape suddenly came out of the mist. Fortunately it was not a sea goblin but in fact a cow, meandering around by the sea. As darkness arrived I made my way back to the tent for some sleep.
This created an extremely eerie atmosphere and as I walked along the sand alone I had the fright of my life when a shape suddenly came out of the mist. Fortunately it was not a sea goblin but in fact a cow, meandering around by the sea. As darkness arrived I made my way back to the tent for some sleep.
The next day I woke up to the incredible sight of crystal blue sea and golden sands before I got on my way exploring Vatersay, which is an island connected to Barra via a causeway. I headed to the South of the island and walked over a couple of small peaks (Beinn Chuidhir & Am Meall) and grass land before coming to a beautiful beach where I sat and watched Oyster Catchers, shags and a herd of cows with calves sunbathing on the sand!
Just after midday I across to Barra and drove around the whole of the Island, stopping off at various spots to take in the scenery of the golden beaches on the east coast, the sea life and the standing stones. Making my way up one of the highest peaks Ben Tangabhal (332m) on the Island in the heat of the sunshine I found a spot and taking in the views of the whole of the island, looking down to Halaman bay.
Just after midday I across to Barra and drove around the whole of the Island, stopping off at various spots to take in the scenery of the golden beaches on the east coast, the sea life and the standing stones. Making my way up one of the highest peaks Ben Tangabhal (332m) on the Island in the heat of the sunshine I found a spot and taking in the views of the whole of the island, looking down to Halaman bay.
Sea mist rolling in.
After a while I descended back to the car and continued to drive the west coast up to the north of the island where Barra Aiport is and watched as a plane came to land on their airstrip; a long strip of golden sand which is arguably one of the best airports in the UK.
As evening approached I headed back down the West coast to Cleit where I spotted another perfect pitch for the night in the sand dunes by another amazing beach. I hadn’t seen anyone around so I literally had the beach to myself – or so I thought. Once the tent was up I cooked dinner and sat looking out to sea whilst I ate only to notice something bobbing not too far out in the water.
In closer inspection I realised it was a seal, who seemed to be bobbing in the sea looking right at me. I headed closer to the shore to get a better look and there he was just looking over to me. I made my way onto a rocky outcrop in the sea and sat there a while watching as the seal watched me. He seemed as intrigued with me as I was with him and after a while slowly closer and closer. Next thing I knew there was another seal head bobbing up and down in the water, and then there was the three of us – just looking at each other yet at ease in each other’s company – them bobbing in the sae and me on sat on the rocks near the shore.
As evening approached I headed back down the West coast to Cleit where I spotted another perfect pitch for the night in the sand dunes by another amazing beach. I hadn’t seen anyone around so I literally had the beach to myself – or so I thought. Once the tent was up I cooked dinner and sat looking out to sea whilst I ate only to notice something bobbing not too far out in the water.
In closer inspection I realised it was a seal, who seemed to be bobbing in the sea looking right at me. I headed closer to the shore to get a better look and there he was just looking over to me. I made my way onto a rocky outcrop in the sea and sat there a while watching as the seal watched me. He seemed as intrigued with me as I was with him and after a while slowly closer and closer. Next thing I knew there was another seal head bobbing up and down in the water, and then there was the three of us – just looking at each other yet at ease in each other’s company – them bobbing in the sae and me on sat on the rocks near the shore.
Whilst I was sat here I looked over to the other side of the beach and spotted some really big boulders at the base of a peak, which I later found to be Beinn Cleit (206m). I made my way back to the beach and walked across to these boulders all the time watching on as the seals followed me. Now this could have been coincidence you may say, but I walked up and down that beach numerous times and all the time the seals would follow me and stay there bobbing looking right at me.
This was an amazing experience in itself as I felt really comforted by the presence of these creatures in an otherwise lonesome place. My exploration around the boulders brought its own incredible experience as I found that by going through a small, low tunnel in the boulder it brought you out into small, beautiful bay – completely hidden from view and had the most magical atmosphere. I sat here for a while pondering, whilst taking in the atmosphere and looking out to the seals who were still bobbing about looking at me. As the light faded so the mist returned so I made my way back over the beach giving a final wave to the seals as I headed to my tent, feeling so lucky that I was in this amazing place.
This was an amazing experience in itself as I felt really comforted by the presence of these creatures in an otherwise lonesome place. My exploration around the boulders brought its own incredible experience as I found that by going through a small, low tunnel in the boulder it brought you out into small, beautiful bay – completely hidden from view and had the most magical atmosphere. I sat here for a while pondering, whilst taking in the atmosphere and looking out to the seals who were still bobbing about looking at me. As the light faded so the mist returned so I made my way back over the beach giving a final wave to the seals as I headed to my tent, feeling so lucky that I was in this amazing place.
I awoke the next day to beautiful clear skies and another amazing view out to sea, thinking I could quite happily stay here forever. After breakfast and tent packed up I headed to the ferry point at Aird Mhor where I would be saying goodbye to Barra as I continued my Hebridean adventure on to Eriksay.
For a small island Barra has so much beauty and features some of the best beaches and coastlines I have ever seen, add to this the abundance of sea life and birds it really is a special place. Next time I'm leaving the car on the mainland and take the plane in!
For a small island Barra has so much beauty and features some of the best beaches and coastlines I have ever seen, add to this the abundance of sea life and birds it really is a special place. Next time I'm leaving the car on the mainland and take the plane in!
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