The Llantysilio Mountains as seen from the Eglwyseg Mountain
On my journeys across North Wales to the peaks of Snowdonia and the west coast I have many a time past a mountain range with three prominent peaks dominating the landscape just north of Llangollen. I have never known the names of these peaks and as I drive past on the Horse Shoe Pass (a winding road that goes over the Maesyrychen Mountain linking Llangollen to Llandegla) I always make a mental note to check the map to find out which they are.
Needless to say, I always forget and it was only when I was stood on the Eglwsyeg Mountain nearby with map in hand that I finally identified these hills. They were in fact the Llantysilio Mountain and Moel y Gamelin, and they breathed a real ancient mysterious air that I knew just had to get up and explore them.
Needless to say, I always forget and it was only when I was stood on the Eglwsyeg Mountain nearby with map in hand that I finally identified these hills. They were in fact the Llantysilio Mountain and Moel y Gamelin, and they breathed a real ancient mysterious air that I knew just had to get up and explore them.
Moel Morfydd ahead
The next day I found myself parked up in the small village of Rhewl at the base of this mountain range, ready to explore the ancient hills. I followed the track, passing by the 14th century Sun Inn, an Inn that was used to quench the thirst of the Drovers of yesteryear (sadly it seems to have closed its door these days).
I followed the track to a point where I was ambushed by a flock of pheasant who took a rather clumsy, over dramatic flight from the field next to the track making the most immense racket, a rather awkward sound for such a gracious looking bird. With my heart beat back to its normal pace I continued up the track where a greater spotted woodpecker darted back and forth just ahead of me, and once it took its place on an oak tree began to peck on the bark creating that familiar drumming sound.
I followed the track to a point where I was ambushed by a flock of pheasant who took a rather clumsy, over dramatic flight from the field next to the track making the most immense racket, a rather awkward sound for such a gracious looking bird. With my heart beat back to its normal pace I continued up the track where a greater spotted woodpecker darted back and forth just ahead of me, and once it took its place on an oak tree began to peck on the bark creating that familiar drumming sound.
Moel y Gamelin
I walked on, passing farmers in their fields and eventually came to an isolated white house where the track came to an end. From here I took a grassy path which was surrounded by greenery making it feel like I was walking in a tunnel, and I half expected a White March Hare to pop out muttering something about being late.
The path gradually got steeper as I walked up gaining height and a bubbling brook ran parallel to it. Before long I found myself stood in an opening with rugged moorland ahead of me and the impressive limestone cliffs of the Eglwseg Mountain as I looked back.
Here too, as I looked to my right, I could see the object of my walk – the peaks of the Llantysilio Mountains - Moel y Gaer (504m) & Moel Morfydd (550m), and furth on – Moel Y Garmelin (577m).
The path gradually got steeper as I walked up gaining height and a bubbling brook ran parallel to it. Before long I found myself stood in an opening with rugged moorland ahead of me and the impressive limestone cliffs of the Eglwseg Mountain as I looked back.
Here too, as I looked to my right, I could see the object of my walk – the peaks of the Llantysilio Mountains - Moel y Gaer (504m) & Moel Morfydd (550m), and furth on – Moel Y Garmelin (577m).
The view south to the Vale og Llangollen and Dinas Bran
As I made my way up the path which led through the heather scrub land and up towards Moel y Morfydd, the landscape began to open up and with each step I took the more of a view I had. From where I stood I could see the peaks of the Berwyn Mountains to the west, and south towards Dinas Bran, the remains of a castle fort dating back to 1260s, sat upon a steep hill in vale of Llangollen.
I continued up the path which leads to the west of the peak until it turns right, leading up to the summit. With each step I took I listened out to the call of the many birds that make this scrubland their home. In the valley below I could see buzzards soaring and heard the song of many smaller birds. Here is also home to the rare black grouse, but fortunately I did not encounter a sudden ambush as I did with the pheasants in the valley below.
I continued up the path which leads to the west of the peak until it turns right, leading up to the summit. With each step I took I listened out to the call of the many birds that make this scrubland their home. In the valley below I could see buzzards soaring and heard the song of many smaller birds. Here is also home to the rare black grouse, but fortunately I did not encounter a sudden ambush as I did with the pheasants in the valley below.
The view to the north from Moel Morfydd
Eventually I came to the summit of Moel y Morfydd and the panorama was incredible, allowing for views across to the mountains of Snowdonia in the north east, the Clwydian Range in the north east and the welsh hills to the south.
From here as you looked to the east you could see the undulating line of the other peaks leading to the Maesyrychen Mountain with the sandy coloured path in contrast to the purple heathland of the hills.
At the trig point I stood and took in the view all around. It was then that I realised that there was no one else about, not one person. I glanced to the west and followed the path to see if I could see anyone ascending, but no one. I then shifted my glance to the east where the popular Horseshoe path lay, but still no one. So there I stood, on top of a hills in the welsh valley with this incredible view, all alone. I must admit this was rather nice and made a welcomed change from the busy national trails that I often find myself on. It allows for time to just look, listen and take it all in. A true connection to nature and the mountains that have graced this landscape long before the presence of people.
From here as you looked to the east you could see the undulating line of the other peaks leading to the Maesyrychen Mountain with the sandy coloured path in contrast to the purple heathland of the hills.
At the trig point I stood and took in the view all around. It was then that I realised that there was no one else about, not one person. I glanced to the west and followed the path to see if I could see anyone ascending, but no one. I then shifted my glance to the east where the popular Horseshoe path lay, but still no one. So there I stood, on top of a hills in the welsh valley with this incredible view, all alone. I must admit this was rather nice and made a welcomed change from the busy national trails that I often find myself on. It allows for time to just look, listen and take it all in. A true connection to nature and the mountains that have graced this landscape long before the presence of people.
The outline of the Snowdonian Massif in the distance
The path took me down and back up again until I reached the summit of the next hill, Moel y Gaer (translating as ‘Bare Hill fort), which makes perfect sense as it is indeed the location of a small hill fort dating back to the Iron Age. Though the ramparts have since diminished, the flattened path at the summit clearly marks out where it would have been, and the view across the valleys the Dee & Clwyd it was no doubt a good defensive position.
From here you can see the other hill forts in the region, from those on the Clwydian range and south at Dinas Bran creating a line which would be a valuable part of the defensive process back in the day, when warning beacons were lit on them passing the message along the valleys.
From here you can see the other hill forts in the region, from those on the Clwydian range and south at Dinas Bran creating a line which would be a valuable part of the defensive process back in the day, when warning beacons were lit on them passing the message along the valleys.
Moel y Gamelin and the Burial Cairn at the summit looking West.
I continued on the path which led down to a cross road of paths in which the Clwydian Way intersects and continued up the steep ascent to the summit of Moel y Gamelin. With it being the highest point on the Llantysilio range, it provides even more of a spectacular view across North Wales. Here I stood and thought about how thousands of years ago people would have been walking across this area and over these hills, defending their land as well as farming it.
What really fascinates me about his peak is that instead of a trig piont there is a cairn at the summit, and this isn’t just a pile of stones to show the way. In fact it is the location of a burial cairn dating back to the Bronze Age, where someone of high status, whether a man of wealth or a chief, was laid to rest. I could almost imagine the scene as if I were part of it, a group carrying the body up to the peak where he could be laid overlooking the beautiful landscape of North Wales, the atmosphere sombre yet respectful as the burial place was covered by the stones.
What really fascinates me about his peak is that instead of a trig piont there is a cairn at the summit, and this isn’t just a pile of stones to show the way. In fact it is the location of a burial cairn dating back to the Bronze Age, where someone of high status, whether a man of wealth or a chief, was laid to rest. I could almost imagine the scene as if I were part of it, a group carrying the body up to the peak where he could be laid overlooking the beautiful landscape of North Wales, the atmosphere sombre yet respectful as the burial place was covered by the stones.
The view across towards the limestone cliffs of the Eglwyseg Mountain
I stood there for quite a while looking past the cairn to the mountains of Snowdonia, whilst the re-enacting the scene in my head when all of a sudden I heard footsteps, the kind of someone running towards me. I quickly looked back, half expecting a Bronze Age solider, but was relieved to see that it was not an apparition from the past but a very modern looking fell runner. Though this was the first person I had seen on the hills so far this day, it did not surprise me that it was a fell runner as this range lends itself as a popular location for a local fell race.
A quick hello as he ran past and he was gone, running down the steep path from where I had just come. I soon followed him, though run down I did not. I did try it for a couple yards but could see a slip, trip and fall on the cards and decided that rolling down the hill would be far less graceful than a steady walk down.
Once back at the cross roads I took the Clwydian Way path to the south which leads around the hill amongst the rich purple landscape of the heathland, which provides a nice sight when in contrast of the greenery of the valley and woodland below.
A quick hello as he ran past and he was gone, running down the steep path from where I had just come. I soon followed him, though run down I did not. I did try it for a couple yards but could see a slip, trip and fall on the cards and decided that rolling down the hill would be far less graceful than a steady walk down.
Once back at the cross roads I took the Clwydian Way path to the south which leads around the hill amongst the rich purple landscape of the heathland, which provides a nice sight when in contrast of the greenery of the valley and woodland below.
The contrast of colours from the changing landscape
The path slowly descended until it came to a track which led past house with their chimney smoke puffing away and fields where pesky pheasant lay in waiting. On high alert and ready for any further ambushes I walked along the track which eventually brought me back to the car park near the church in Rhewl.
What I love about these Mountains is that when you are amongst them you feel like you are an ancient wilderness where Wales’s history shows itself with every step. From the Burial places to the quiet summits with extensive views, it is a range that provides an enjoyable walk with, a look into the past, but within easy reach.
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