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Mountains, Mulled Wine & Mince Pies in the Mist

18/12/2016

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90% chance of clear summits in Snowdonia the Mountain Forecast said. No rain (yey!), no snow (boo!) and mild temps (in December?!) with minimal winds were forecasted for the area, so when the original plans of wildcamping in the Lake District fell through last minute I loaded the car and headed for the Moelwyns, where I planned to do a multi-day route with a wild camp on the summit in-between.

With promise of good weather, mild temperatures and clear skies I envisaged the usual ‘sat on summit under stars’ scenario that I have been blessed with the majority of times I've been on the hills this year. I even thought I’d catch the last of the Geminids meteor shower. But alas, as I approached Croesor it would seem that my luck had run out as I looked across to the claggy summits fed by the rolling mist and clouds coming from the sea, accumulating in the valley and driving up to the summits of Cnict and Moelwyn Mawr. Bugger, I thought.
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Not one to let weather stop play I parked up, grabbed my Bergen and headed out to the hills taking the direct route up Cnict, surrounded by a thick fog along the way. With the views obsolete it made me look in more detail at the area I could see and I came across some beautiful and weird sights as I headed up to Cnict. As I approached the climb to the summit I noticed a brief break in the mist that showed me the clear summits of Snowdon and her surrounding peaks. It would seem that of the 90% clear summits in the area, I was on the 10% of the not so clear summits!

Continuing upwards at the last steep ascent the cloud began to dissipate and with a further few feet ascent I looked around to be met by a truly mind-blowing view. There I stood, above the clouds looking out to the sun as it began to set in the west.
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Now I have seen many an amazing cloud inversions over the years but this one was something else. The clouds that rolled in from the coast were huge, the type you see from out of a plane window. They seemed to bubble up into huge masses before tumbling toward me like a sandstorm, only to be drawn out to the valley to my left at what felt like the last moment. Here a fellow walker caught up to me and we both stood there in absolute awe, taking in the beauty of our surroundings. Looking over to the north I was now met with a good view of the Snowdon massif standing proudly above the clouds.

What a reward for a couple of hours sifting through the mist! Mother Nature certainly had me on my toes this time!
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I spent about an hour or so leaving the summit of Cnict to drop down to the Llyn to pick up some water and decided rather than head to Moelwyn Mawr, which was still shrouded, I’d pitch up on Cnict as the clag would come and go. I had pretty much resigned to the idea of stargazing but thought it was a good a spot as any so put up my tent and made dinner. Here I enjoyed some mulled wine that I had brought up in my flask and some mince pies and gingerbread men to feel festive.
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It became quite apparent that the clag was not planning on clearing and after a while looking at the Venus and the stars through short breaks in the cloud I headed into the tent to read ‘Conquistadors of the Useless’, a book I have been meaning to finish for a while. It is a brilliant book about the memoirs and adventures of the incredible climber Lionel Terray, one which I highly recommend. With no wind or rain to interrupt my slumber.
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I popped out of the tent at around 10.30pm to be met with an ethereal sight of the moon shining brightly through a break in the clouds whilst everything around me was completely clagged in, with a visibility only up to 4m. When I am on the hills on a clear night I can sit up to the early hours watching the night sky so it made a change to head to bed and be asleep for 11pm!

I awoke at 7am and stuck my head out of the tent to see what the day had planned for me. Pretty much the same sight as the night before! Head back in I decided to have a lie-in as no sunrise would be witnessed from this summit this morning!
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Once up and breakfast done I was just about to get up to pack away when a couple of walkers passed by. This is the thing about lie-ins on popular peaks – there is generally always going to be someone on the hill at 9am! After a brief chat I bid them adieu before packing away the tent. Assessing the situation I decided to headed back down the way I had ascended and explore the old quarry areas before heading back to Croesor. The mist hung in until I dropped down an adequate amount so before then a spot of navigation with the old map & compass was required as I left the path to explore the area to the north of Cnict. I then picked up the path that led back to the village. Looking back the summits and surrounding flanks were still shrouded and I thought that I could have easily sacked it off yesterday but would not have experienced that incredible view from the top.

Sometimes, it's good to have a naff weather day as you just don’t know what you might be blessed with!
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Doorstep Adventures: River Dee Ramblings.

25/9/2016

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Following on from the previous Doorstep Adventure I continued the theme of following the waterways that passed through the place I live.
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Looking at my OS Maps I decided to follow the River Dee starting in Eccleston Ferry, just ten minutes drive away. I have been here many times to walk the dog but tend to follow the river in the direction of the city, going with the river’s flow. I had yet to follow it in the other direction, for no other reason than I had never got around to it.
 
Parking in the small car park I headed towards the river taking the path to the right, instead of the left as I would normally do. The path entered a wooded area whose trees wore subtle hints that autumn was on its way. It still felt like summer though, with warm temperatures, blue skies and bright sunshine.

The path follows the river’s edge so I would often stop to watch the river slowly drift passed, waving to canoeists and people in small boats on the water. Walking through the woods I was surrounded by an array of beautiful birdsong and beams of light that shone through the high canopy. Further along the path passes behind Eaton Hall, its wrought iron fences coming into view. Here the stretch of the river feels quite wild with its banks overgrowing with vegetation and the wildlife was in abundance!

Meandering on, the path eventually left the riverside and took a curve inland passing a large field at the Crook of Dee. Passing by a lovely house on the edge of the Eaton Hall Estate it soon re-entered the woodland and took care on the muddy path that began to narrow. It eventually led to an access road where I joined it to cross the beautiful bridge over the river, re-joining the path on the other side.
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It was evident that the path along this side of the river wasn’t used as much as the one I had come from as it was pretty overgrown in parts and I often had to duck under low hanging branches, using my walking pole to bushwhack through the thicket (a reason why I always carry a single pole with me). After a short while of feeling like I was in the jungle I came to a small cove on the river where I sat to have my lunch, watching the fishes in the shallow water. As time wore on, a couple of canoeist passed by and having given them a wave I packed up my flask and ventured on. Fortunately you can leave the overgrown path and follow it parallel at the edge of a field behind the village of Aldford. This made it much easier than trying to fight through overgrowing brambles.
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Passing through a gate the path continued through woodland with the river still in sight before it opened up to a large area of lush green pastures. It was a lovely sight and I could see a tractor carrying out the harvest in the next field, followed closely by a flock of birds.

Here I sat down for a while to watch the natural world go by and enjoy the sun’s warmth on my face. I could have easily stayed there for hours but looking at my watch I decided that it was time to head back.
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I retraced my route, enjoying being immersed in the natural surroundings. Passing through the woodlands, through the jungle and over the bridge I followed the path all the way back to where I had started, stopping to chat with some people along the way.

This was a few free hours on a Sunday very well spent and I promised myself that I would do the route again, this time walking all away to the village of Farndon. It really is easy to take for granted what you have on your doorstep and I have really enjoyed exploring areas around my hometown. There certainly is so much to see and experience!
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Exploring the Welsh Wilds - Moelwyns & Cnict

19/9/2016

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It was Friday evening and the forecast was looking good for the weekend so a last minute plan was hatched to take in a welsh mountain that I hadn’t yet got around to experiencing. Poring over the OS Maps for inspiration and referring to my personal ‘Welsh Peaks to Do List’ the mountain was soon decided. I have often see the Moelwyns whilst on other hills in the Snowdonia area. It is a prominent feature and one I always make a mental note of doing next time I’m in the area. However, with such a plethora of beautiful mountains, ridges, routes and wild terrains that often took preference over the years, the Moelwyns always seemed to be the next mountain I would climb but it never actually materialised. I think this is often due to the fact that throughout the spring and summer when the weather is fair, I tend to stay away from the more popular areas of Snowdonia as they are often incredibly busy. It’s not that I am an anti-social sort of person, but I do like my wild places and solitude, where you can truly connect with nature knowing that you can walk for long periods without seeing a soul. Far from the madding crowds as it were.
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With a route to Cnict from Beddgelert which I have done previously, I know that it can get busy on this mountain. As there is an onward route to Moelwyn Mawr I have always figured it would be a well-trodden area, not quite queues at the summit, but busy enough to prevent that feeling of walking through the wilds of Wales. On this particular occasion it soon became obvious how wrong I could be.

Looking at the map and having done a spot of research of the area, a route was soon plotted. I decided to start in Croesor, a small village where I have never been, nestled in the countryside with a single track access. From here the plan was to ascend Cnict from the south west, descend from the north and continue on to Moelwyn Mawr 8 Moelwyn Bach, passing disused quarries and Llyns along the way. Here there was the option to ascend Moelwyn Mawr, retrace the ascent route and head to Moelwyn Bach before taking the path that led back down to Croesor. A lovely circular route inclusive of 3 summits that was estimated c. 14km.

 A quick message to my friend Jason asking what his plans were for the following day and the sharing of the proposed route via OS Maps software, the next day’s adventure was sorted. Onward to the Moelwyns.

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Leaving early doors on Saturday morning I was well on my way following the usual route into Snowdonia. As I approached, the objective of the day came into view. There, standing proudly was Moelwyn Mawr. I eventually followed the single track to Croesor which delved more into a wild landscape, popping in and out of the car to open and close gates as I went. I arrived in the car park to meet Jason and as the sun shone, we followed the track towards Cnict, leaving the lovely village of Croesor behind us.

Now I have often said that I think September is the best month of summer. For the past number of years my weekends spent on the hills in September have had much better weather than those spent in August (which have been known to be a bit soggy). Granted, this summer in the UK has been great but it came as no surprise that the day was set to be a lovely, warm, sunny one as the clouds began to lift in throughout the morning.
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As we made our approach to Cnict we decided to skirt around to the west of it to visit an interesting feature on the map. It was a cave, one of the many things I have a fascination with so we had to explore it! This meant that we didn’t take the more direct route to Cnict via its south-western saddle, but it was well worth the detour. Not only was the cave considered as a 4 star Hotel (see photo), but we also passed by the most beautiful Llyn.

So far we had not seen anyone else but as we looked up we could see a few people heading to the summit of Cnict from the route we were originally going to take. Continuing on, the path was pretty none existence in parts so a bit of map & compass and OS Map App were done to ensure we kept on track. We ascended over undulating ground and craggy spots before reaching the ridge that leads to the summit of Cnict, stopping frequently to take in the stunning view that were laid out in front of us. The sun was beaming and the surrounding summits were all clear, albeit Snowdon who had its mid-morning veil caressing its head.

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Just before we attempted the final push to Cnict’s summit we met a father & son who were enjoying a day out on the hills, so stopped for a brief chat with them (see…told you I’m not anti-social!). The view from the summit was incredible and it soon became clear that this vast area, dotted with Llyns big and small, was wild terrain. It was not in fact an area covered by hundreds of people out for a Saturday stroll, but an area that you could spend days emerging yourself in nature with a few wild camps here and there. Why had I not ventured here before I questioned myself.

Onwards we travelled making our way to Rhosydd Quarry, crossing the diverse landscape, huge boulders where I wondered how long they had been there, Llyn Cwm-Corsiog and a rather splendid waterfall, nestled in a nook. After a few auditions for the next Herbal Essence advert we made our way following the stream to the Quarry, and what a fantastic place it was.
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I love coming across ruins and crumbling buildings whilst out in the British hillsides as it is an interesting reminder of how these areas were used by people years ago. These are the types of places I like to explore and imagine what life would have been like for those who passed through the stone building doors or worked the land and quarries here. This place blew me away. It was almost like something out of a film set, perhaps even a spooky movie, but in a good way. You could almost hear the murmurings of the miner’s chatter and the sound of slate being hit. I could have sworn I heard a whistle blow and the sound of the miners opening their lunch boxes as they took a break from the arduous work. It was certainly huge and there was also a tunnel that we investigated but decided not to venture in without climbing helmets for protection. Next time though, especially as I have been told about the old mine tunnel somewhere around here that goes all the way through.
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After a good amount of exploring we continued up to the next disused quarry, Croesor Quarry. Though not as big as Rhosydd Quarry, the old underground slate mine produced an interesting contrast against the mountain’s flanks. The old Croesor Tramway was evident as it meandered away from the quarry towards the village. From here we navigated by taking bearings over the pathless landscape before meeting up with the path that leads up to Moelwyn Mawr summit.

Once again the views were phenomenal, with Snowdon completely clear now she had shaken her summit shroud and all the other wonderful high and low peaks of Snowdonia standing in all their glory. As we had mooched about a bit, stopping for photos, putting the world to rights and getting into a walking rhythm that complimented the last, lazy days of summer, we decided that we would not blast up Moelwyn Bach this time but continue to the summit of Moelwyn Mawr, heading down its flank which also eventually led back to Croesor.
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We stood at the trig point with a stunning 360 panoramic view of all the beautiful natural landscapes North Wales has to offer: The coast, the mountains and the stunning, rich landscape. It felt like I was home.
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After leaving the trig point we headed across the spicy-looking ridge that eventually led to a fairly steep descent, again passing evidence of the area's industrial history in the form of an old miners building. We followed the path that eventually led to the flat track and continued on towards the car park, passing lovely farm houses along the way featuring fences made from large pieces of slate. Before returning to our cars I took a last look behind us to see the mountains that we had climbed that day. Fantastic mountains in a wild area that would be unforgiving and a hard navigational challenge in pea soup conditions, but on this day it was an experience touched by history and a glorious, natural landscape.
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As we made our way back to the campsite where we were staying that night I could have kicked myself. This is my perfect terrain: quite, wild and teeming with incredible natural features and points of interest. One for many future visits and multi-day adventures that’s for sure. Next time I’ll be carrying my tent/tarp and look forward to submerging myself in this piece of welsh wilderness!
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Doorstep Adventures: A Sunday stroll along the Canal

27/8/2016

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I’m terrible for this. A free weekend inevitably sees me pack up my kit and head straight from work to the hills on Friday night for a couple days walking & wild camping. What’s the problem with this you may ask, and there isn’t one really, but it means that that I tend to take the place I live for granted. Sure, I don’t step out of my door to be met by a mighty peak or venture into a vast wilderness beyond the gate where I can walk for days without bumping into anyone but this doesn’t mean that there aren’t loads of lovely places brimming with wildlife in and around my area that I have yet to discover.

It happened that I had two weekends in a row where the Sunday was free so I decided to go somewhere new in and around where I live. The aim was also not to have to drive anywhere, or at least no more than ten minutes. Looking at the map I decided to follow the waterways in the area, one being the River Dee and the other the Canal.
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And so, the first Sunday I looked at the maps to see how far I could walk down the Shropshire Union Canal and whether I could follow it all the way to Nantwich. It seemed perfectly doable and I reckoned I could get all the way to Nantwich in about 5hrs. Here I would then get the bus back home.

Of I set with a small rucksack with a couple of bits of kit and my lunch, closing the front door behind me as I made my way to the point where I could pick up the canal tow path.

Straight away I was met with the sight of the waterways and some bright and beautiful canal boats and barges, each adorned with their own individual names. This is a particularly busy part of the canal with people out on the tow path enjoying Sunday strolls and family bike rides, thus creating a lovely, easy-going atmosphere. I walked along passing ducks and moorhens eagerly waiting for snacks from passers-by, eventually entering part of the canal where people’s gardens met the water's edge.
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I looked on in envy at each of these beautiful gardens that had direct access to the canal, some with decked areas where they could sit and watch the water world go by, many with small rowing boats tied up. The ones with the fire pits and chimineas were my favourite! After watching a cat try to stalk a few ducks that were hanging around one of the garden (unsuccessfully I might add) I was met with part of the path that had a tree overhanging, causing a bit of an obstruction. At this point I could see another person approaching so waited to let them through. They actually did the same and very kindly let me go through first. Here we passed some pleasantries before engaging in a full-blown conversation about mountains, climbing, Snowdonia and books about mountains and climbing. Who would have thought that I would have met a fellow mountain and adventure enthusiast on a canal tow path, just by absolute chance?
iIt was rather serendipitous and we had the most fantastic and fascinating conversation stood there by the canal. The chap actually lived on a boat there so gave me lots of information about the wildlife he often sees. The thing was that before we knew it we had been stood there chatting for an hour and a half! After saying farewell I continued on, soon realising that I would probably not make it to Nantwich in time to catch a bus. This really wasn’t a problem as I had enjoyed our conversation so much so decided to press on and walk as far as I could by a certain time, to which I would then turn around and retrace my route back home.
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As I passed the chap’s boat I kept an eye out for the kingfisher he said he usually sees. Lo and behold, a quick flash of electric blue and there it was, perched on a post on the other side of the canal.

I walked further passing more interesting gardens and a barge that was certainly made for me called 'Mountain Dreamer'. As I began to leave the villages the canal took an interesting change. It became very overgrown either side with the evasive Himalayan Balsam blocking the edge.

It suddenly began to feel rather wild, not where you would expect a boat to cruise past. Here the wildlife truly flourished and I nearly bumped into a Heron who was stood on the path ahead of me. He only decided to fly off as I approached giving me a spectacular view of his wing span as he headed down the canal.
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Passing under bridges and walking parallel to farmland I suddenly spotted something poking out of the hedge. A first it just looked like a small plastic box but on further investigation it was actually a Geocache. Popping it back in its location I walked further along the canal until I spotted something rather unusual fluttering in the wind. Attached to a moored barge was a black flag with skull and crossbones! Pirates!

Approaching carefully so not to disturb the infamous Canal Pirates I could see that next to the barge was a cool little shed and a large canvas tent with structures made from willow inside. There also seemed to be a stone pizza oven type structure. This was a full living set-up and a sign pointed out that you could do willow weaving courses there. How fantastic, this pirate’s life was not at sea but more so at the canalside.
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Walking further the canalside community increased with a row of barges on the other side moored up with their own little gardens (one featuring the biggest sunflower i have ever seen) and areas where they could sit outside watching the canals go by whilst having dinner.

I walked slowly by, waving hello to them and engaging in chat across the water. This water community was so intriguing and it was a lovely surprise to discover it on this stretch of the Shropshire Union Canal. Sitting on a bench having lunch I said hello to the passing barges, moving slowly across the water at a pace that is perfect to have a quick chat with those on board as they pass by.
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Looking at my watch I realised that it was time to make a move back, so swung my rucksack on my back and off I set the way I had come, again saying hello to the waterside community and the Pirate. Back along the path, under bridges, watching the wildlife enjoy their surroundings I was soon back where I started on the tow path. Making my way back home I thought about all the things I had seen and experienced on my short walk down the canal that is so close to my home.

It is very easy to take for granted the things on your doorstep, especially with the lure of mountains and wild terrain. Let’s not forget though that there are so many places to discover that boast a different but equally fulfilling  experience. On that Sunday I was glad to have made the most of it.
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Sleeping on Mountains: Arenig Fawr

31/7/2016

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This was a bit of an impromptu trip as my original plans for the weekend had fallen through. So here I here I was, sat at my work desk at 3.45pm with my kit packed in the car and no set plan. No bother though as I knew exactly where I would go; a mountain range I have been to many times and absolutely love. The Arenigs.

Located in southern Snowdonia, these are the prominent hills that can be seen as you drive on the A4212 passed Llyn Celyn. Arenig Fawr standing at 854m is on the left, its ridgeline very clear (when not draped in clag) and its sister peak, Arenig Fach (689m) the more rounded looking mountain to the right of the road.

By the time I had got there and parked up, checking my kit one last time to ensure I had everything for the days ahead, it was around 7pm. With the longer summer days this gave me plenty of time to reach the bothy at Llyn Arenig Fawr where I had planned to stay the night in front of a fire. I have stayed at the bothy many times before and although it is small and cosy I always find it vacant.

As I headed up the road, eventually turning right onto the path, the evening light lit up the surrounding hills with a golden hue. It was still warm and by the time I arrived at the bothy (which was vacant) I thought it would be a shame to choose bricks and mortar over canvas on a night like this so decided I would ascend Arenig Fawr and sleep near the summit. I always pack my tent and things even when I am planning to stay at a bothy. You never know, there may be no room at the inn.

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Heading up via Y Castell, the surroundings were awash in gold that slowly turned to a pinky hue once the sun set further. The view was impeccable and I could see all the mountains of Snowdonia both near and far. I hadn’t seen anyone on the hill and that feeling of complete solitude felt so good. Moving forward I headed up on to Arenig Fawr’s flank, finding a perfect pitch just before a rocky outcrop. I don’t like to camp too near the summit on Arenig Fawr out of respect to the B17 Flying Fortress American Air Crew who sadly lost there lives when their air craft cashed into the mountain on the 4th August 1943. There is a memorial plaque and photo of the crew near the trig point, along with Remembrance Poppies which always leaves me a bit emotional.
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With tent up and dinner on I sat back and watched the skies changed colour as the sun began to set. This produced the most beautiful Belt of Venus that caressed the horizon, giving the evening light a beautiful alpenglow. Though a little chilly there was no wind, thus creating a wonderful, peaceful atmosphere as I sat there.  As far as I was aware I was the only human on that mountain and it was such an amazing feeling. People often remark how ‘brave’ I am to go climb and sleep on mountains as a lone female. Personally I feel safer in these environments than I do going on a night out in a city these days. I am experienced, competent and confident in my ability and always check weather and prepare for a multitude of situations. I carry map and compass and know how to use them, plan my routes (leaving a route card with family) do not take silly risk and know what to do should the shizzle hit the fan.

Sitting there on that mountain, watching the most stunning sunset that left a night sky awash with a million stars I felt like I was home. There is something about the mountains and natural surroundings that speak to me. Almost like a primal connection or a natural reconnect, this is where I feel the happiest, the most fulfilled and the most like myself. There’s no pressures of the ‘Real World’ here. The ones that throw a million things that you should do/should be/shouldn’t do/shouldn’t be et al. at such an incredible pace.

Taking a step back from all that and just spending even the smallest time in natural surroundings can be so good for us as a species. We just need to remember that.
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,The sky was truly alive that night. The sunset was phenomenal and left the skies banded at the horizon, reminding me of the photos the astronauts take from the International Space Station.

Noticing a bright satellite I soon realised it as the International Space Station. I watched it cross above me eventually fading and disappearing into the Earth’s shadow thinking how incredible it was that there are people on board all the way up there in orbit.

Needless to say I did not sleep much that night as I stayed up, awestruck by the skies above me. Meteors continued to burn through the atmosphere ranging from short fain whisps to bright, fire balls. The Milky Way arched over the skies above me and I thought about all the stories, myths and legends about the night sky that I had heard about over the years.

Whenever I look up at the night sky I always ponder about people across history who have looked up at that same sky and those same stars and wondered what their lives were like and what they were thinking at that time.
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After a couple hours more sleep I awoke early to catch the sunrise following the previous day’s sunrise. To me, this is a beautiful experience and one I wish I could witness each day (life and the weather usually to blame). Though the sunrise featured briefly it was soon submerged by the early morning cloud that set in, the landscape equally stunning nonetheless.

After a couple more hours kip followed by exploring the area and watching the wildlife I packed up and headed toward the summit of Arenig Fawr. It was another beautifully warm day with a scattering of cloud and I enjoyed taking my time as there was no rush. Reaching the summit and stopping at the memorial to show my respect I followed the path down towards the southern flank before dropping down to reach the head of the valley. Here I sat for a while with the Jetboil on and watched people parascending off Arenig Fawr’s western flanks. Taking the path to the west I headed up to the summit of Moel Llyfnant, saying hello to the first person I had seen in the hills. The wind had picked up by the time I got to the summit so I didn’t spend too long there before dropping back down to the path which met up with the route down the valley.
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Passing waterfalls I stopped to top up my water and continued on the path which eventually led me to the ruins of an old farm house. Here I sat watching a very vocal buzzard soar above before perching in a small tree close by. Amongst the ruins, looking out to the beautiful landscape seemed like the perfect spot for lunch. I lazed around in the sun for some time, enjoying the peace and quiet. I could see a fair few people at the summit of Arenig Fawr at this point as it approached early afternoon. Packing up my Jetboil and kit, I threw my Bergen back on and headed on the path that took me towards the disused quarry near to where the car was parked. I would have liked to spend another night in the hills but had to be back for an event on Saturday night.
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Though my time was limited on the hills compared to usual it was still one of the most fulfilling and fruitful of experiences. To watch the night sky from the mountains is nothing short of humbling as to how minuscule you realise you are in the grand scheme of things and why it is so important to make the most of our time here, appreciating this incredible planet we live on.
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Ridges, Summits & Starts: Nantlle Ridge Multi-Day Hike & Wildcamping

1/6/2016

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With the second May Bank Holiday about to commence and the forecast looking good it was time to make the most of it and head to Snowdonia for a multi-day hike involving wild camping.

With other plans on Saturday morning I couldn’t spend 3 days on the hills as I would have liked but I was looking for a new route that would offer a diverse experience including mountains, ridges, llyns and forests. As it was Bank Holiday I knew only too well that the popular mountains of Snowdonia were going to be rammed, so I tried to keep away from these areas.

Looking at my ‘Welsh Mountains to-do List’ I spied a route that offered everything I was looking for: Nantlle Ridge. Referring to my maps I plotted a route that would take me over a number of mountains, following the ridge that ties them together. Here I would drop down into Cwm Pennant before ascending towards Moel Lefn and back down through Beddgelert Forest.
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The important part of this route was to ensure that there were water sources along the way so I could top up my water supply over the two days. I spied a couple of streams high up on the mountain's flanks but as the weather had been fair of late I assumed that some of them would be dry. I made a plan of where to water resupply supported by a few back up options. I also had my Life Straw and ‘Water-to-Go’ bottle with filter if needed so I felt well prepared.

I decided to start the route from the village of Rhyd-Du, leaving the car there and heading up to Y Garn (not the one above Llyn Idwal) for the first night. Driving through Snowdonia mid-afternoon I passed the usual long lines of parked cars and wondered if I would actually get a parking spot in the village. Fortunately, as I arrived there was one space free so I parked up, grabbed my kit and headed toward Y Garn, passing Llyn y Gader on my left. By this time it was early evening and the slog up to Y Garn was certainly a shock to the system.
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Arriving at the top, I had a splendid view across Snowdonia and found the perfect place to pitch my tent looking out towards the North Wales coast. An ideal location to watch the sunset! Once the tent was up and dinner was eaten I headed off for a late evening explore along the ridge up to Mynydd Drws-y-coed. With a bit of a scramble at the top I stood on a large boulder and looked around, taking in my surroundings. As the light began to fade I could see the twinkling lights of the villages below and I was once again excited to feel disconnected from that world and reconnected to the natural world.

After a bit more exploring I headed back to the tent where I watched a beautiful sunset that slowly gave way to clear night skies. Spotting shooting stars and satellites I sat there once again in awe of this incredible planet and the space beyond it. I was soon ready to hit the hay so retired to my tent to fall into a blissful sleep. That’s one of the things I have noticed after years of sleeping in the wilds. I always sleep better in the wild.
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Waking early to catch the sunrise I unzipped my tent to see the view of the ridge before me. Crawling out to put the Jetboil on for the morning’s coffee, I stood up and looked around me. In the dawn hue I could still see the village’s lights glowing and it almost felt like I was the only one in the world awake at this time whilst standing on a mountain top in North Wales.

As the sun began to rise higher into the sky I packed up my things and set off on the day’s walk. I made my way along the ridge, following the easy scramble to the top of Mynydd Drws-y-coed before continuing along the path with a steep drop to the right before passing Trum y Ddysg.
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The path descended fairly steeply before ascending again up to Mynydd Tal-y-mignedd, where there stood a tall Obelisk, erected to commemorate Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee. The views were incredible and the weather was fantastic, not bad for a Bank Holiday in Britain! The path continued over a wide, flat-topped saddle before descending again by Bwlch Dros-bern. Before it began to ascend once more I picked up a path to the right that traversed Trwyn y Craig. The path began to fade and I found myself crossing uneven ground, thick with heater and strewn with rocks and boulders. Taking care to not twist an ankle, fall down a crack or trash the wildlife I took my time as I made my way toward a stone wall.

Here I was met by a rather handy stile and popped over the wall, continuing down to a stream to top up my water. This spot was perfectly nestled in the valley and I sat there for a while dipping my feet in the cold stream. I looked back to the ridge I had walked along and could just about make out two small moving dots. People! The first I had seen since leaving my car in Rhyd-Du. After enjoying relaxing in the sun I hoisted on my Bergen and once again set off, making my way up stream passing two connecting llyns.
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Eventually I came to Llynnau Cwm Silyn, a large lake that narrowed in the middle to a stream where I was able to cross with ease. Making my way to the lake’s edge I sat and again dipped my feet in. I was soon joined by a couple, one of whom put on a wetsuit and entered the water for a swim. The other took out his fishing rod and cast out whilst their dog ran along the edge of the lake watching its owner swim the entire lake twice. I stopped here for about an hour to have lunch and continued to watch the fisherman and swimmer before pulling myself to my feet and cracking on with the route up Clogwyn y Cysgod.

It was a sweaty slog up to the top and as I walked I could make out many people at the summit of Garnedd-goch. I also noticed a fair few climbers on the rock to the left of the lake that leads up to the top via a gully. At the summit I bumped into a few people, exchanging pleasantries before taking my time to explore the area. The views continued to be phenomenal and I sat looking at the mountains, naming them all to myself as I scanned the landscape. Here I noted the ones I had climbed and others I was yet to climb. Snowdon had now shaken off its summit cloud and was looking grand. I wondered how many people had been on that mountain today -  a lot more than had been on this one, that’s for sure!
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As the afternoon began to merge into early evening and the majority of people on the hills had began to make their way back I was left alone on the summit. Here I looked for a good spot to pitch the tent before leaving my kit so I could walk to Mynydd Graig Goch without carrying weight. It felt good to take the Bergen off, enabling me to bound across to the cairn at the summit. Here I bumped into three fell runners who were making the most of the nice evening to get a training run in before a fell running competition that was taking place along the ridge the following weekend.

Waving them farewell, I sat on a large rock and cracked open a small beer that I had brought with me. Sipping the refreshing beverage I watched a couple of buzzards out hunting and listened to the chirping of birds. I could see out to sea and all the way to the Wicklow Mountains on the east coast of Ireland. Finishing my beer I made my way back to the tent, exploring the area again as I went. With the tent up and dinner on I sat back and enjoyed the scenery surrounding me. Here I was, alone again on a mountain and I felt free. And boy that felt good. As the evening light began to fade I once again watched a beautiful sunset and sat under the stars before retreating to my tent to sleep.
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I woke up early to see the sunrise and after a couple of hours walking around the area I packed up my things and set off, following the ridge in a north easterly direction to descend back down to Bwlch Dros-bern. I then dropped down to the head of the Cwm Pennant valley, stopping at a stream along the way to top up water. Once down in the valley I arrived at the old quarry, investigating the ruins with pure fascination.

The Prince of Wales Quarry (1873-1886) features evidence of the work that once went on here and has a lovely reservoir situated next to it - a perfect spot to sit and have lunch in the sun. From here I ascended up to Moel Lefn, takin a rather spicy route up that involved a bit of crag scrambling! Ascending to the top I was met by a great view across to Snowdon which was teeming with people. Watching through my binoculars I could see a line of what looked like hundreds making their way to the summit and here was me, alone on the summit of a lovely mountain in Wales.
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After an unsuccessful search for Owain Glyndŵr's Cave on the mountain’s flanks (though I think I now know where it is) I descended the way I had come and eventually linked up with a path that took me through Beddgelert Forest, stopping for a brief chat with a group of people on the way. I think that must have been a total of 10 People I had bumped into all weekend! The path left the forest and continued towards Llyn y Gader. At one point it was intersected by a stream running from high off the ridge's flanks. Just further downstream there was a small pool that looked very inviting after a hot day of walking. Donning swimwear I bathed in the rather warm pool for a while in absolute bliss surrounded only by a couple of sheep. This was pure paradise.

Drying off and clothes back on I headed passed Llyn y Gader and followed the road back into Rhyd-Du, stopping off to get an ice cream at the café in the village on the way. Back at the car I popped my Bergen back in the car and looked out to the mountains that I had spent the last couple of days on.
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What a truly fantastic route that had everything. Multiple summits, great ridge lines, nice scrambles, natural llyns, forests and fine views from the summit. This is a route I know I will return to many times. The fact that they remain fairly quiet on a sunny bank holiday weekend is surprising, and I felt very fortunate to have had such an incredible experience.
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Under the Stars: Southern Rhinogydd Wild Camp

16/5/2016

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May. My favourite month of the year as wildlife emerges in abundance following spring’s lease of new life. Winter has passed even though cold snaps are still in air and snow still falls in some of the high places, the longer evenings of light make for long days on the hills.

It’s been a busy year so far but with a weekend free there was only one option as to how I would spend it. I had to get back to the wilds.

I get a little stir-crazy if I don’t have regular access to the outdoors and often find that when life is starting to feel a little frenzied, a weekend spent on the hills alone helps me refresh and recharge.

I had decided to return to my ‘go-to’ mountain range where I have spent many nights sleeping on the mountains in the area. This time I decided to mix it up a bit and head to the southern part of the Rhinogydd for a change of scenery. The forecast was looking good, with sunshine and clear night skies so I packed my Bergen with all my required kit and off I went.
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The route is a lovely one. Starting from the small carpark behind Cors y Gedol Hall I meandered along the farmer’s track, passing fields full of cows and the view of Moelfre ahead. It was another lovely warm day with a promise of clear skies.

The plan was to walk up to Diffwys and follow the ridge over Crib y-rhiw to Y Llethr where I would find a nice spot to pitch my tent for the night. With plenty of hours of daylight and not a lot of ground to cover I could take my time, walking at a leisurely pace and stopping along the way to take in my surroundings.

As I walked with Moelfre on my left I was soon met with a grand view of the mountains ahead of me. Here I continued on a path cross country that led to a lovely stone bridge at Pont Scethin where I took off my boots and refreshed by feet in the cool stream whilst enjoying a coffee. Following a brief chat with a couple who passed by I put on my Bergen and set off for the climb up to the ridge.
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Something caught my eye alongside the path ahead of me. It seemed to be a large block of stone, which soon became clear as I reached it. The stone featured engravings and was a memorial to a lady called Janet Haig, the mother of the Bishop of Winchester (1942 -1952) who would walk this route from Tal y Bont to Penmaenpool, even as late as her 84th Birthday. How incredibly inspiring and how lovely to have this placed for her. I hope I am still able to walk in the mountains in my 80s I thought to myself as I took in the surrounding views.

Arriving on top of the ridge where I was met by a cairn I turned to the left and followed the path over undulating ground until I reached the trig point at the summit of Diffwys. Here the views were incredible and I could see for miles, taking in the sea and mountains of Snowdonia and beyond.
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After a brief chat with a couple of chaps enjoying a brew at the summit I continued on under bright blue skies and followed the path as it descended towards Crib y-rhiw. Here I stopped again to take of my Bergen and enjoy the surroundings with my boots off. I stayed there for about 40mins, lazing around in the sun, taking photos and watching the wildlife whilst enjoying the impressive surroundings.

Pulling myself out of a summer haze I continued on to a small llyn perched on the other side of the wall at the start of the ascent to Y Llethr. This little llyn looked out to the east and looked very inviting. Crossing the wall I was soon enjoying a wild swim in my very own infinity pool. After a sweaty few hours of walking it was divine to feel the cold water on my skin.
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Feeling refreshed it was time to make the short slog up the summit of Y Llethr. At the top I bumped into only the 5th person I had seen on the hills that day. He was traversing the route from the north and had come up from Rhinog Fach, whose summit and Llyn I could see clearly from where I stood.

After a chat I bid home farewell as he continued his route down. It was early evening now so I cached my Bergen and set off to explore the area, taking in the views as I went. I returned about an hour or so later, pitched my tent on the summit and sat having dinner awaiting the sun to set. Looking down to Llyn Hywel I could see a tent pitched and someone stood by the water’s edge. I wondered if they had noticed me all the way up here on top of the mountain.
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The sun began to set and I had the most beautiful colours could be seen caressing the horizon, giving the evening light a beautiful Alpenglow pink hue. The sunset was phenomenal and left the skies banded at the horizon that reminded me of the photos the astronauts take frim the International Space Station.

This was only the beginning of what was in store for the night as the sunset gave way to a clear sky featuring millions of starts. The temperature had dropped leaving a cool chill in the air. Donning my down jacket I laid back on the ground under one of the most prominent Milky Ways I have seen in the UK and watched as shooting starts whizzed through the sky.
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Needless to say I didn’t sleep much that night as I looked on in awe at this incredible sky above me, thinking and philosophising about the beauty of this planet and what is beyond it. At about 3am I crawled into my tent and fell into a deep sleep, only to be woken by the alarm that I had set to awake me before sunrise. As the alarm went off I unzipped my tent to be met with another wonderful view. Looking to the east I saw a hint of the sun beginning to rise, causing a watercolour effect of blues and pinks.
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Packing up my tent, I followed the path away from the summit and down the western side of Y Llethr, savouring what I had seen since setting off the day before. I continued on the path that ascended to the summit of Moelfre, to be met by a cairn made from a huge pile of jagged rocks.

Here I descended through the forest, stopping to explore the old ruins of a farmhouse before meeting up with the path that heads left to the Llyn Bodlyn Reservoir and right to the track that led me back to the small carpark. As I packed my kit into the car I looked back at the mountains I had stood upon with a huge smile on my face.
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Turning the Jetboil on to make an early morning cup of coffee I sat outside my tent, watching in awe once again as the sun rose through the clouds, lighting up the horizon and casting its golden cloak on all of the surroundings. With coffee in hand I walked around the area in the early morning chill watching as the natural world seem to wake from its slumber.

There is something incredibly humbling about standing on a mountain alone watching sunrises, sunsets and incredible night skies. After all, we are mere mortals and only a small grain in the vast sands of time. I always feel honoured and hugely connected to the natural world during these experiences.
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These types of adventures are where I feel most fulfilled. The route itself is great and with wonderful weather and an incredible wild camp spot, I left feeling recharged and privileged to have once again been shown the wonders of nature.
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Winter arrives in the Lake District!

26/11/2015

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I had headed up to the Lake District for the Kendal Mountain Film Festival, planning to go there on the Saturday and squeeze in a walk on the Sunday. As I approached the Lakes under clear blue skies I could hardly contain my excitement as I was met with a view of the mighty peaks covered in snow. Winter, it seemed, had certainly arrived!
My initial plan was to walk up Red Screes, so I had tactically car camped nearby late Saturday night with the hope of an early start and cloudless summits. As I woke early and popped my head out of the window I was miffed to see that I was in a cloud itself, and no summits or even the road could be seen. I decided to grab a couple more hours sleep with the hope that the fog would lift.
At 8am I got up to make breakfast and although the fog had lifted a bit the summit of Red Screes was shrouded in cloud. It was looking rather doubtful that I would get the views I had expected today but decided to head on up nonetheless – after all, it could clear later! Walking boots on, rucksack packed; I went to grab my map and start walking.

My map. Where was my map?

Having riffled through the car and bag numerous times it soon began to dawn on me that the map was not in the car. If it wasn’t in the car, it was more than likely still at home in the place I had last had it before I left early on Saturday. But I am sure I packed it, almost positive even. Nope, it’s definitely not here.

Oh Balls!
Picture Red Screes (taken in Nov 2013)
With claggy conditions and no idea what the tops would be like I decided that it would not be good to head on up without the map, even though I have done the route a fair few times before.

So that was it, the Red Screes plan was abandoned and so was my mountain walk by the looks of it.
As I began to put my bag back in the car I noticed a map peeking out from under a scarf on the passenger seat.

It was OS map OL5, the north eastern territory, which had been left in the car from the last time I was up in the Lakes a few weeks before.

A quick look at the map and the back-up plan was settled – head north and attempt Blencathra as I was familiar with the route, it’s got a car park at the bottom and takes about 3.5hrs give or take.

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As I drove from Kirkstone Pass towards Blencathra I couldn’t help but notice that all the surrounding hills were covered in thick clag, so no summits could be seen. I was a bit disheartened by this as the last time I had checked the forecast it was supposed to be a fairly good day. That’s mountain weather for you though - ever changeable.

Onwards I went until I the mountain came into view, featuring a heavy shroud of cloud on the tops but clear flanks that intermittently lit up to a golden autumnal hue as the sun tried its best to break through. I drove passed the White Horse Inn and continued on the narrow road to the car park, pleased to see that though it was bust I managed to get the last spot. I got out, threw on my rucksack and started out on the path under blue sky and accompanied by the sun that had managed to make it through.
Mousthwaite Comb, Blencathra
Looking up Mousthwaite Comb
I walked up the fairly steep path Via Mousthwaite Comb checking back to see the views behind me that were more or less blocked by the cloud that was still hanging heavily on most of the mid lakes area.

Up and up I went before shortly arriving at the saddle where I was met with snow patches here and there and a small glimpses of a snowy Atkinson Pike as the cloud blew across it. Continuing on the path I was soon surrounded by the fells which featured a smattering of snow on their flanks!
Atkinson Pike, Blencathra
Looking towards a snowy Sharp Edge, Blencathra
The further I walked the more snow there was and as I reached Scales Tarn it was quite obvious that winter had arrived in the mountains. The snow became deeper as I left the tarn behind and continued on my way up to the top and on to the summit (868m). Fortunately this was not ice axe and crampon conditions, which is good as failing to have both with me, I would have not continued if it was.
Scales Tarn, Blencathra
Looking down towards Scales Tarn
There was a handful of people at the summit with more approaching from the Hall’s Fell Ridge route and what a wonderful place to be. The cloud drifted in and out providing either great views across to the peaks or a few seconds of whiteout. There was still a lot of cloud on the southern fells and I wondered if Red Screes had a clear summit, most likely not.
Walker on the summit of Blencathra, Lake District
Walker on the summit of Blencathra, Lake District
After enjoying being surrounded in a winter wonderland high up on that mountain, the wind whipped up so I began my descent, taking the Scales Fell route back down to the car park. Lo and Behold, the skies cleared and the views were extensive.
The ridge leading to the summit of Blencathra from the east
The ridge leading to the summit of Blencathra from the east
Rucksack in the car, boots off and engine on I headed off on the long drive home, chuffed to bits with what I had experienced that day. Though the day had begun with a slight spanner in the works having forgot the map for the original route, all was not lost and I am kind of glad that it led me to head north to Blencathra. A moment of serendipity indeed!

Oh, and the map that I had left at home? I found it tucked away under the driver’s seat when I got home……

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Return to Eigg.

22/6/2015

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It's been 7 years since I last visited the Isle of Eigg, an island measuring 9km x 5km off the west coast of Scotland. That first visit was purely by chance as we were supposed to be going to the Isle of Rum for the week but managed to miss our CalMac ferry from Mallaig by minutes. As we only had a week up there and the next ferry was in a few days we stood at the terminal a little gutted that we could not go to Rum, having spent a lot of time researching and planning the trip. We were also at a loss as to what to do next! As we were about to get the maps out to find a plan of action the lady at the ticket office advised that we could get the passenger ferry from Arisaig a few miles down the coast from Mallaig and go to the Isle of Eigg.

To be honest we hadn’t a clue what the Isle of Eigg had to offer as, although we had seen it on the maps when planning the Rum trip, we had not looked into it. With no idea what to expect we threw caution to the wind and headed to Arisiag to get the ferry across the next morning.

After a further conversation with the ticket office lady who told us about the Isle of Eigg, the wildlife, the scenery and the wild camping we were completely sold and made our way to Arisaig, camping at Camusdarach Campsite with its stunning beaches before heading down to the Arisiag Marina where we jumped on board the MV Sheerwater. As well as being a passenger ferry to the small Isles  (Rum, Eigg, Muck and Canna) it is also a wildlife boat trip so offers a great chance to see seals, porpoise, basking sharks and if you are very lucky, Minke Whales.

What I didn’t know at that point when I was crossing to Eigg that the experience of the island would be the most magical, incredible one.
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For many years I have been trying to get back to Eigg but for one reason or another with every year that passed I never made it back to the Island. Over the 7 years since the last trip I have visited many of the other islands of the west coast including Tiree, Mull, Canna, Colonsay, the Outer Hebrides to name a few.

This year I promised myself that I would finally go back and in June that’s exactly what I did; I returned to Eigg.
Having driven up to the west coast I spent the night at Camusdarach which was as spectacular as ever before taking the MV Sheerwater across to Eigg the next morning from Arisaig. The hour crossing is a great chance to spot wildlife and to see the Isle of Eigg come into view.

I pondered over the thought as to whether my experience on Eigg this time would be as good at the trip 7 years ago, or had I over glorified it in my mind over the years. I decided to try to not compare that trip with this one and to just take it as it comes.

Arriving at the ferry port on Eigg brought back some great memories as I spotted people I had met the last time I was there. I headed to the café near the pier which had not changed much at all I am glad to say and was advised it is still the central hub for the community of islanders. In fact the night before they had live music by a well-known band which was packed out.
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That night I had planned to stay at the north end of the island at the Eigg Organics campsite in Cleadale so I walked up the path from the ferry point through woodland and passing the big white house (where Earth Connections run a residential eco centre).  As I left the woods and entered open land I was met by the view of the mighty An Sgurr, a magnificent pitchstone ridge and the highest point on the island, providing spectacular views from its summit. Its dramatic, sheer cliff face & rocky crags make it a popular place for birds of prey which can often be seen soaring high above.

The path soon joined onto the main road on Eigg that stretches from the ferry point to Clevedale. Here I passed the Isle of Eigg Primary School, the Old Shop (which is now a small museum) before finally approaching the north of the Island where Laig Bay came in to sight with views across to the Isle of Rum.

As I approached the Old Croft Museum, set up in the fashion of how a croft house would have been lived in, I was pleased to see it was still open and popped inside. It truly is a fantastic exhibit and provides a great insight into the lives of the crofters all those years ago.
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Arriving at Egg Organics  I was met by a very friendly sheep dog who led me to the owner, Neil, who advised where was best to pitch my tent. Passing the bothy and yurts I made my way to the higher ground and set up the tent in front of the most splendid view across to the Isle of Rum with its cuillins. Eigg Organics offer gardening courses and has an enviable veg path which I had a look at on my way to the showers located at the back of the house. Here they also have a small nook filled with books and a piano for use of those staying at the campsite.

I popped in and took a seat whilst I looked through the books, drawn to the book about Eigg written by Camille, one of the islands long standing residents. What started as flicking through soon turned in to a read-a-thon as I nestled down in the chair and read the history of Eigg including all the different Lairds who once owned the islands.

Having pitched up and had dinner whilst looking across to Rum I headed down to Laig bay for a late evening walk. Laig bay is such a beautiful place to be and what better may to end my first day back on Eigg than to watch the sun set and the wildlife around me.
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The next day I had planned to climb An Sgurr and with good weather I left my tent and walked down the road back to the pier where I had some breakfast before setting off. The route up to An Sgurr is lovely, passing through woodland, then open grazing land and the Glasmidale House which was the abode of the last Laird of Eigg back before the islanders gained their independence. Making my way over a path through the heather I stopped to take in my surroundings, listen to the bird song and turn my eyes to the skies to see if I could spot any Golden Eagles soaring above the mighty Sgurr.

Having approached from the east of the range, the path began to veer left and ascend up to the top of the saddle which provided extensive views across the island and towards the Isle of Muck and Rum, as well as to the mainland.

The area is one of scientific importance and is a habitat rich in flora and fauna. It has a number of lochs that were popular for trout fishing in previous decades and is home to a variety of interesting plants and insects. An Sgurr itself is of real geological significance, a result of one of the last eruptions of a volcano. Making my way to the summit trig point under blue skies I was met by the fantastic 360 panorama. I could see across the whole island and beyond to Rum, Muck and the Scottish mainland. What a stunning sight and an amazing place to be.
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After a relaxing stop for lunch I began the descent down the same path I had walked up, eventually cutting through the woodland and the big house before heading up the road to Cleadale. As I walked along the road a vehicle would pass every now and then with a wave hello from the driver. The islanders are so friendly and would often stop to ask if I would like a lift. More often than note I would politely decline the kind offer as I really enjoyed the walk, watching the wildlife and taking in the scenary.
 
After arriving back at my tent and cooking dinner I made my way down to the Singing sands, named so as when you walk on the dry sand it squeaks under foot due to the layers rubbing against the quarts in the sand. Here I wandered the beach watching the sea birds, visited the ‘Mermaids Hair’ water fall and just enjoyed being back in this beautiful place. Views across to Rum were again incredible and I stayed there late into the evening, watching the sun set before returning to my tent.

The next day I headed to the south of the island where I stopped in the café for a coffee before making my way down to the Cathedral and Massacre Caves on the south west coast. I will never forget the last time I was here, all those years ago being told the history of the Massacre cave and how the islanders would hide in the cave in times of danger. One of the most tragic of those times took place in the late 16th century when the whole of the island community was hiding in the cave from the McLeods, the clan that the McDonalds of Eigg had been feuding with for some time. At first they thought they had remained unseen but were eventually found and the McLeods lit a fire at the entrance of the cave causing all 395 islander to suffocate. A massacre indeed and an extremely sad blot of the Island's history.
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I didn’t go into the Massacre Cave as it is dangerous due to rock fall but I did continue further around the coast to the Cathedral Cave with its huge entrance and almost holy feel. Now I am not a person of faith but you can’t help but feel some sort of spiritual aura whilst stood in the cave looking out to sea. It is no surprise that this was used by Roman Catholic services after the Jacobite rising of 1745.

Before the tide came and cut me off from I took the path back up to the tops before heading back to the shop to pick up a few things. I then continued on towards the south-eastern part of the islands to a bay where there was many seals bobbing about in the water. I noted that this would be a perfect spot for a wild camp for later. I made my way back to the pier to retrieve my rucksack and after walking around the south coast I decided to pitch up for a wild camp right near the sea, an ideal spot to watch all the seals.

After cooking dinner whilst watching the wildlife I lay in my tent reading my book and listening to the sea. As the light began to fade I had one last look outside at the beautiful scenery before zipping up the tent door and falling into a peaceful sleep.
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The next day was my last on the Isle of Eigg as I was to take the ferry across to the Isle of Muck for the next couple of days. I packed up the tent, said goodbye to the seals and made my way to the café at the pier where I enjoyed breakfast as I sat looking out to sea.

As I waited for the Manx Shearwater ferry to arrive I mulled over my last few days on Eigg and thought about how great it was to once again experience this magnificent island. It did truly live up to expectataions and this is certainly a place you can visit many, many times. Next time I won't wait 7 years to return!
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Keen Koven WP Womens Walking Shoes

17/2/2015

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After the majority of winter living in my hiking boots, whether it’s my three season for general hikes or winter mountain boots for climbing snow-capped peaks in the UK or high altitude ascensions, I’m thinking more towards lighter evenings and more weekends spent walking and camping in the UK National Parks. Don’t get me wrong I love winter but with recent signs that spring is on its way, with the buds beginning to show through and the weather slightly milder I am looking forward to tackling trails and hanging out around the tent in a lighter pair of shoes. Unfortunately my last pair of approach/walking shoes have walked their last mile so I have been looking at a replacement pair.
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I was drawn to Keen Walking Shoes as I had not really had any experience with their footwear before apart from their sandals, so was eager to take the Keen Koven WP Womens Walking Shoes for a test drive to see how comfortable, supportive and waterproof they are and whether these would become my chosen pair of walking shoes for the adventures I have planned for the spring. Rather than wait until then, I thought I would go on a walk through woodland trails, over limestone rocks and a small ascent up a local hill to see how they fared.


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When I first put them on it was obvious what a great fit they were as they felt comfortable and supportive on my foot arch which is down to the EVA footbed. I tried them both in fairly thick walking socks and thinner ones as I tend to wear walking shoes rather than boots on trail walks and for hanging out around the tent after a day on the hills and in both types they still fitted well. The laces were strong though a little short but I still managed a double knot for an extra secure fastening. Heading on the woodland trail the walking shoes felt comfortable as I walked over tree roots, muddy paths and boulders ascending to the top of a hill.

At no point did I feel unstable or hesitant with each step as my feet felt very protected and my ankles supported whilst allowing flexibility.

They look good too and I love the gnarly named 'Gargoyle Alaskan Blue' as sometimes with womens shoes outdoor brands can go a little over the top with stereotypical feminine colours, such as bright pink or what not. The subtle colour scheme is attractive yet not too bold, which I like.

The Keen Koven WP Walking Shoes have a deep tread so they handled wet and mossy rocks well, avoiding slips whilst comfortably supporting the foot which is a sign of a good walking shoe.

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The waterproof leather and mesh upper of the Keen Koven WP Walking Shoes, along with the combination of a KEEN.DRY membrane, means the walking shoes are both waterproof and breathable to ensure that they remain dry on the inside and out. Whilst walking in wet grass and through puddles my feet remained dry and comfortable, though I am looking forward to seeing how they handle shallow stream crossings and long walks through wet terrain to truly test out how waterproof they are. I did give them a wash off with the hose as they had got pretty muddy on the trails and it was clear that the membrane withstood the water, stopping it penetrate through the leather and membrane. I think the true test will come in time when they have been used a fair bit and the fabric has softened to see whether they need to be reproofed on a more regular basis, which is what I have experienced with past walking shoes, but for now I am pretty confident in their capability.
I look forward to testing these on slightly more challenging terrain and over longer distances this spring to see how they stand up overall but for now I am very impressed by the comfort, fit and durability of the Keen Koven WP Walking Shoes.

Looking forward to taking them on a future adventure!
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    Someone who seeks adventure, yet inevitably adventure finds her.  Always seeking inspiration, always looking for a challenge.

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