View across to Snowdonia Range
I’d stumbled across the Arenigs whilst on an impromptu trip to North Wales whilst looking for a hill to climb, in an area not too far away from home. Having exhausted the popular peaks in Snowdonia and not wanting to travel too far out, I decided to head towards Bala.
A quick look at the area map and I spotted two solitary peaks near to Llyn Celyn reservoir, both possessing a decent ascent and some interesting features. At 689m & 854m, both Arenig Fach & Arenig Fawr offer good elevation and therefore provide a good hike, but it was Arenig Fawr that really caught my eye. The higher of the two with an interesting ridge and association to the origin of Noah and his Ark, which in the current British weather seemed very apt, became the obvious choice for a Sunday hill walk.
A quick look at the area map and I spotted two solitary peaks near to Llyn Celyn reservoir, both possessing a decent ascent and some interesting features. At 689m & 854m, both Arenig Fach & Arenig Fawr offer good elevation and therefore provide a good hike, but it was Arenig Fawr that really caught my eye. The higher of the two with an interesting ridge and association to the origin of Noah and his Ark, which in the current British weather seemed very apt, became the obvious choice for a Sunday hill walk.
Tyn Cornel Campsite
Having driven across the border on Saturday afternoon, I arrived at Tyn Cornel, a lovely, friendly campsite just down river from the National Whitewater Centre. Once the tent was up I spent the evening watching canoeists on the river and took a walk on the Tryweryn Trail, which boasts an amazing population of tree varieties and wildlife including otters.
As the evening drew in it was back to the tent for a spot of route planning and research regarding Arenig Fawr, the focus of the next day’s walk. Regarding myths & legends, there was not as much found about Arenig Fawr as usually comes with welsh mountains. I did, however, find a story about Llyn Arenig Fawr having fairy’s in it that once stole a farmers herd or something, and that brief mention association about Noah and where he built his ark, but that was about it.
An interesting fact though, was that it was the site of an American B17 Bomber that crashed into the mountain in 1943, and there is now a memorial at the summit.
As the evening drew in it was back to the tent for a spot of route planning and research regarding Arenig Fawr, the focus of the next day’s walk. Regarding myths & legends, there was not as much found about Arenig Fawr as usually comes with welsh mountains. I did, however, find a story about Llyn Arenig Fawr having fairy’s in it that once stole a farmers herd or something, and that brief mention association about Noah and where he built his ark, but that was about it.
An interesting fact though, was that it was the site of an American B17 Bomber that crashed into the mountain in 1943, and there is now a memorial at the summit.
Llyn Arenig Fawr Reservoir
The next day brought a break in the bad weather and a drive past Llyn Celyn continued the promise of blue skies and sunshine. After taking a road left of the A4212 signposted Arenig, I came to a bit of waste ground at the old site of the Arenig quarry, a fairly impressive feature with a rather sombre presence until you hear, then see, the abundance of birdlife nestling in the rock face. Leaving the car here, I continued on the road to Pant-yr-Hedydd passing solitary houses with the most amazing enchanted gardens featuring all sorts of veg patches and animals including cows, goats, piglets, geese and an overly aggressive sounding turkey. A wee nod to living the self sustainability dream!
Just after Pant-yr-Hedydd I went through the gate to the right of the road onto the track that headed South East at a steady gradient leading up to the Llyn Arenig Fawr Reservoir. The peak was quiet except for the throaty call of the ravens and the sky larks darting about and the only people I saw were a group a fair way ahead of me making for a peaceful and solitary amble. Having passed over a stream via a ladder the path takes you up a fair gradient up passed Carreg Lefain and up to Y Castell. At this point a glance behind you brings the most spectacular views across south Wales taking in the Rhinogs and peaks over toward the Clwydian Range. This is when I realised I was in for a treat as I hadn’t even hit the summit yet and I was experiencing a visual feast.
Just after Pant-yr-Hedydd I went through the gate to the right of the road onto the track that headed South East at a steady gradient leading up to the Llyn Arenig Fawr Reservoir. The peak was quiet except for the throaty call of the ravens and the sky larks darting about and the only people I saw were a group a fair way ahead of me making for a peaceful and solitary amble. Having passed over a stream via a ladder the path takes you up a fair gradient up passed Carreg Lefain and up to Y Castell. At this point a glance behind you brings the most spectacular views across south Wales taking in the Rhinogs and peaks over toward the Clwydian Range. This is when I realised I was in for a treat as I hadn’t even hit the summit yet and I was experiencing a visual feast.
Areing Fawr Ridge
Once at the top of Y Castell the full ridge of Arenig Fawr come into play with its incredibly steep south western flank and a number of faux summits, though from here it is clear to see the true summit. Crossing over the fence line, the path, becoming faint in the boggy parts, takes you toward the ridge from the east but does not take you right up on to the ridge but contours on the South East flank gradually ascending until the trig point comes into sight and with it the first chance to see the view across to North Snowdonia, and boy oh boy.....what a view it is. Taking in every major peak in the Snowdonia massif ahead, as well as the peaks of the Llyn Peninsula and the coast to the North West. Panoramas like no other, 360 degrees of absolute wonderment. I have been lucky to experience the amazing mountainous views that the UK has to offer, but I must say that this has to be one of the best. To sit and look across to Snowdon, Tryfan, Carneddau, Cnict, the Glyders, then south to Cadair Idris and the Rhinogs is an incredible sight that filled me with absolute awe and amazement. Surely if the Gods were to choose a view to look on for all of eternity then this would be the one!
Artist at work of Arenig Fawr summit
Whilst I took in this view I noticed a figure at the trig point that hadn’t seemed to move in the time I had sat there just below the summit. At first I thought he was taking photos but as I approached his action became clear. He was in fact painting....yup, he was stood there in front of an easel, full warm kit on, with hood up to protect him from the wind, paintbrush in hand, painting the view to the west. Indeed, if the Gods were to create an art studio, this would be the place!
After a quick hello I reached the trig point where I came across the Air Crew Memorial, scattered with poppies in front of the plaque that listed the airman’s names who died in the crash. Alongside it there were bits of twisted metal, and what seemed to be broken bolts. I assumed these must be parts of the wreckage which made the sad story all the more real.
After a quick hello I reached the trig point where I came across the Air Crew Memorial, scattered with poppies in front of the plaque that listed the airman’s names who died in the crash. Alongside it there were bits of twisted metal, and what seemed to be broken bolts. I assumed these must be parts of the wreckage which made the sad story all the more real.
Memorial at the Summit
Arenig Fach peak with Snowdonia Massif behind
After a fair time appreciating the view I said my goodbyes to the lone painter, left his studio leaving the summit in the north east direction. The descent was a fairly easy affair until I dropped down the cwm to the west which was uneven ground full of hidden rocks and holes, thus slowing my pace down. As I headed in the direction of the small reservoir where the streams meet, the grounds became boggy under foot leading to that ‘Ah crap’ moment when your foot goes down and you end up mid calf deep in a bog, After pulling out a now soggy left foot and a ‘bog limp’ I followed the stream until I came across the wall with a gate followed by a path leading passed a building ruins and eventually bringing you to the road. I turned Right onto the road and continued a brief walk until I came back to the quarry where I had parked my car opposite. The sun was still shining at this point and the birds of prey were soaring above the quarry crags.
View to the north of Wales
As I sat on a boulder watching I thought about Arenig Fawr and the incredible panorama experienced at its summit. How easy it could have been for me to pass by this mountain without realising the bounty it had on offer. A solitary hill, away from the popular mountain ranges of Wales, lacking in legend and myth, yet providing a great peaceful walk with views that would even make the Gods bow in awe.
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