With another day of fair weather forecast it only seemed right to stay within the area of South Snowdonia to explore the wild landscapes of the Rhinogs.

We headed from Dolgellau up through Llanbedr and on towards Llyn Cwm Bychan where we parked up at the campsite on the edge of the lake. A great camping spot, with a friendly owner, which is at the start of the path that leads up to Rhinog Fawr.

Leaving the campsite we headed up the path and across the stream leading into a forest surrounded by enchanting trees, strange rock formations and the sound of a cuckoo nearby. On leaving the forest we were greeted by rocky open ground surrounded by craggy hills and continued up toward the Roman Steps. Upon these steps I was hoping to find Roman soldiers milling about, as legend has it that a troops of Roman soldiers with pack mules can sometimes be seen trudging up the Roman steps, and that anybody who follows the soldiers will be led to secret hoard of gold. Disappointingly, on this occasion they must have gone to the baths or pub as there was none about.

The steps led up through Bwlch Tyddiad, a valley that provides a pass through the Rhinog Mountains, where it is surrounded by crags on either side until it opens out again, revealing a magnificent view across East Wales and the first full sight of Rhinog Fawr. At this point we stopped for some lunch whilst listening to the throaty call of Ravens and an abundance of different bird song, as we took in the view. No surprise that the area is a natural nature reserve!

Once fed & watered we took the path that approaches Rhinog Fawr from the north edge. There is another route that takes you on into the woodland then round to the South edge of the mountain but as we could see a poor weather front coming in we wanted to get to the top as quick as we could to gain the best possible views from the summit (rather than stand at the trig point in rain surrounded by cloud!). This path led us round to the south edge passing the Llyn where, to our shock and amazement we came across the infamous Afanc, a Welsh mythological creature that lives in lakes. To be honest, on closer inspection, it was actually a banana peel, but from the photo you will see what I mean!

After walking around the lake, over boulders and rocks, we followed the path up along the stone wall which eventually led to a steep scree ascent up to the top of Rhinog Fawr (2,362 feet/720 m) which was very quiet except for a few fellow walkers and the Snowdon Ranger that we had met briefly at the campsite. The panoramic view was breathtaking, enrapturing the surrounding hills and south to Cadair Idris, the west coast and across to the northern Snowdonian range.

Though the weather was fine on top, we could see a menacing rain cloud making its way over, so decided to make our descent. Fortunately the wind change ensured the cloud went around us instead of straight over so our descent stayed dry. The path took us down to the Llyn again, but this time we crossed over the stone wall and continued on the path over bubbling sheltered springs and down to Gloyw Lyn passing a herd of wild mountain goats on our way. Once at the lake we made our way over boggy ground where I assume the magical sounding Bog Myrtle grows (this is the type of thing I imagine Merlin to have used, but have since discovered that there is a local stout brewed from it that taste amazing!....and I don’t normally like stout much!).

Our descent led us over more marshland before eventually heading into the forest area where we picked up the main path, passing wild primrose and across the nant (small river) that runs into Llyn Cwm Bychan, before entering the campsite again.

After a quick brew at the car whilst admiring the view and listening to the sound of the cuckoo. We headed back towards civilisation in Betws-y-Coed, all the time dreaming about returning to Wild Wales and the endless possibilities for adventures around the area.

What I love about Wales is how it is shrouded in myth & Legends. From King Arthur and Merlin, to fairies, giants and Ladies of the lakes, there is so much folklore inspired by the landscape, and it’s no wonder as when you spend time there you can’t help but feel the magic in the air.

One legend that has always enthralled me is that of Cadair Idris, one of the most popular and mysterious mountains in the southern part of Snowdonia. At 893m, it is one of the highest peaks in its range, allowing for panoramic views across to Snowdon, the coast and over to mid wales.

Cadair Idris, translated as Idris’s Chair, along with its surrounding area, has many a connection to Welsh Mythology. Legend has it that Idris was a giant, and the mountain itself was his chair, where he would sit and gaze up at the stars, inspiring his poetry. It is also said to be one of the hunting grounds of Gwyn ap Nudd, the Celtic Lord of the Under World, and his spectral hounds the Cŵn Annwn. On hearing these huge dog’s howls, it would foretell the death of those who heard it and the pack then swept up that person’s soul, herding it into the underworld. 

Add to this, the belief that the lake, Llyn Cau,  on Cadir Idris, is bottomless and that anyone who sleeps alone on the mountain would either die, go mad, or return a poet, it is easy to see how the mountain holds such mysticism and magic. 

Cadair Idris has always been on my list of mountains to climb as an adult (I have climbed it as a child but cannot really recall it), and after exhausting the main part of Snowdonia, I felt it was time to move my sights to the south of Snowdonia and explore the area, taking in Cadair Idris and the Rhinogs (truly wild Wales).

Friday 4th May 2012:

After what seems like a British Monsoon, the weather forecast looking good, myself & a friend headed off to Taly y Llyn, to a campsite which was located next to the lake and right at the bottom of Cadir Idris. Here, most conveniently, you could join the Minffordd path from the corner of the field. There are many routes up Cadair Idris, each with its own level of excitement, but on this particular occasion we decided to take the Minffordd path.

After a good night’s sleep at the basic but lovely campsite we headed onto the Minffordd path which takes you up through the woods, passing by the small waterfalls and bubbling waters of Nant Cadair, eventually coming to an opening where you could see the full volcanic looking structure of the mountain. With a crater-like appearance that wraps around Llyn Cau, it is easy to see why it is often mistaken to be a volcano, though there is now evidence to suggest that it isn’t. It is  also easy to see where the ‘Cadair’ (chair) comes from as it does indeed look like a giant’s chair with the Saddle and Mynydd Moel acting as the chairs arms.

The weather was fair, except for a light snow shower,  and with just enough breeze to move the fluffy clouds along, it allowed for incredible views as we ascended the ridge. As we approach Lyln Cau, we veered left to ascend up the west ridge which leads up to the summit, Penygader. Being such a popular mountain, the summit was busy and it was difficult to get a lone photo at the summit without elbowing others off the mountain (don’t worry, I didn’t actually do this). The views at the top were immense with a clear view across to the Rhinogs and on to Snowdon and its neighbouring peaks. This was accompanied by views out to the Irish sea and the southern mountain range. We sat for a while, having lunch, taking in the scenery and watching climbers manoeuvring up the north face of the saddle which leads down to Llyn y Gadair.  

Also at the summit there is a bothy, a stone outbuilding used as a shelter for if the weather turns bad, and also to sleep in overnight to test the aforementioned theory of whether the legend is true. Hands up who has tried it, and if so, are you crazy or poetic?!

We left the summit and made our way across to Mynydd Moel (863m) via the ridge with a steep drop to one side. From here we descended down the path that led us back down to connect to the Minffordd path just above the woods. Following the steps down we arrived at the beginning of the path, crossing the stream and back in to the Campsite where the sun was shining in the early evening. A quick drop of the bags and a short drive to the hotel at Tal y Llyn, we sat with a drink and watched over the water as people fished in small boats.

A great circular walk up a magical mountain with inspiring views, and although we didn’t actually see Idris (could have been our demise if he had actually sat down) you could definitely feel the giant’s presence!