The Lyn at Rhinog Fawr
Llyn Cwm Bychan
With another day of fair weather forecast it only seemed right to stay within the area of South Snowdonia to explore the wild landscapes of the Rhinogs.
We headed from Dolgellau up through Llanbedr and on towards Llyn Cwm Bychan where we parked up at the campsite on the edge of the lake. A great camping spot, with a friendly owner, which is at the start of the path that leads up to Rhinog Fawr.
Enchanted trees
Leaving the campsite we headed up the path and across the stream leading into a forest surrounded by enchanting trees, strange rock formations and the sound of a cuckoo nearby. On leaving the forest we were greeted by rocky open ground surrounded by craggy hills and continued up toward the Roman Steps. Upon these steps I was hoping to find Roman soldiers milling about, as legend has it that a troops of Roman soldiers with pack mules can sometimes be seen trudging up the Roman steps, and that anybody who follows the soldiers will be led to secret hoard of gold. Disappointingly, on this occasion they must have gone to the baths or pub as there was none about.
The Roman steps leading through Bwlch Tyddiad
The steps led up through Bwlch Tyddiad, a valley that provides a pass through the Rhinog Mountains, where it is surrounded by crags on either side until it opens out again, revealing a magnificent view across East Wales and the first full sight of Rhinog Fawr. At this point we stopped for some lunch whilst listening to the throaty call of Ravens and an abundance of different bird song, as we took in the view. No surprise that the area is a natural nature reserve!
The Afanc!
Once fed & watered we took the path that approaches Rhinog Fawr from the north edge. There is another route that takes you on into the woodland then round to the South edge of the mountain but as we could see a poor weather front coming in we wanted to get to the top as quick as we could to gain the best possible views from the summit (rather than stand at the trig point in rain surrounded by cloud!). This path led us round to the south edge passing the Llyn where, to our shock and amazement we came across the infamous Afanc, a Welsh mythological creature that lives in lakes. To be honest, on closer inspection, it was actually a banana peel, but from the photo you will see what I mean!
Rhinog Fawr summit with Rhinog Fach behind
After walking around the lake, over boulders and rocks, we followed the path up along the stone wall which eventually led to a steep scree ascent up to the top of Rhinog Fawr (2,362 feet/720 m) which was very quiet except for a few fellow walkers and the Snowdon Ranger that we had met briefly at the campsite. The panoramic view was breathtaking, enrapturing the surrounding hills and south to Cadair Idris, the west coast and across to the northern Snowdonian range.
The view across to Gloyw Lyn
Though the weather was fine on top, we could see a menacing rain cloud making its way over, so decided to make our descent. Fortunately the wind change ensured the cloud went around us instead of straight over so our descent stayed dry. The path took us down to the Llyn again, but this time we crossed over the stone wall and continued on the path over bubbling sheltered springs and down to Gloyw Lyn passing a herd of wild mountain goats on our way. Once at the lake we made our way over boggy ground where I assume the magical sounding Bog Myrtle grows (this is the type of thing I imagine Merlin to have used, but have since discovered that there is a local stout brewed from it that taste amazing!....and I don’t normally like stout much!).
North Snowdonia hills and Harlech beach
Our descent led us over more marshland before eventually heading into the forest area where we picked up the main path, passing wild primrose and across the nant (small river) that runs into Llyn Cwm Bychan, before entering the campsite again.
After a quick brew at the car whilst admiring the view and listening to the sound of the cuckoo. We headed back towards civilisation in Betws-y-Coed, all the time dreaming about returning to Wild Wales and the endless possibilities for adventures around the area.
After a quick brew at the car whilst admiring the view and listening to the sound of the cuckoo. We headed back towards civilisation in Betws-y-Coed, all the time dreaming about returning to Wild Wales and the endless possibilities for adventures around the area.
Menacing Clouds over the Llyn as mysterious apparitions approach
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